Fresh water pump for Perkins Prima M50

[alexincornwall]

Hi,

I suspect unlikely but if anybody has, or can lead me to, a genuine new/VGC fresh water pump for a Perkins M50 (part number U5MW0085), I'd be grateful for a private message.

Thanks

Alex

 

[Tradewinds]

I presume you've visited parts4engines.
Perkins Prima M50 Water Pump

Interesting what they say about the original Perkins part

This is a very high quality pump manufactured for parts4engines and represents an improvement in quality and cost when compared to a genuine Perkins pump. The improvements are:

• Quality of the casting
• Improved machined surfaces
• Build quality

Suitable for industrial (not automotive) and all marine versions of this engine. Please note, the pump surface in contact with the engine block is a machine finish and as such Perkins do not supply a gasket. In our view the use of a gasket sealant will provide a more secure seal.

 

[alexincornwall]

Unfortunately that's where my problems began. Bought a unit from Parts4Engines and after a very hefty labour bill (the pump is in a very awkward position), it turned out to be a dud and leaked right away. I supplied the part so I have had to suffer 2x labour charges - ouch. The engineer had recommended that we lay our hands on a genuine Perkins part but they don't appear to exist at present. Reluctantly, I ordered another pump from the aforementioned as we need to keep the boat moving. It's in and working, but the engineer once again commented that it didn't feel particularly high in quality. I'd like to have a genuine unit gathering dust if and when this one lets go. A shame as I've used parts4engines on numerous occasions without problem but one, potentially two duff pumps is beginning to make me wonder.

 

[Tradewinds]

Interesting. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Goldie]

Alex, have you tried Diperk ( www.diperk.com ) ? When I had a Prima 50 I found Diperk very good indeed.

 

[Bobc]

Like he's teeth now I'm afraid, and they are known to leak from the main seal, so the chances of getting a used one that doesn't leak (or won't after a short period) are rare.

It's getting an old engine now.

The only other places to look are for pumps for the Maestro/Montego/Sherpa van.

 

[alexincornwall]

Alex, have you tried Diperk ( www.diperk.com ) ? When I had a Prima 50 I found Diperk very good indeed.

Hi Ian,

Yes, Diperk are the dealer that our engineer uses. Unfortunately there seems to be a global stock shortage and no units hanging around on shelves, hence they were a no-go also. For any other Perkins users, another good option is Prior Power (Prior Power | Diesel-driven and alternative power systems specialists). Very helpful staff.

 

[Beneteau381]

Unfortunately that's where my problems began. Bought a unit from Parts4Engines and after a very hefty labour bill (the pump is in a very awkward position), it turned out to be a dud and leaked right away. I supplied the part so I have had to suffer 2x labour charges - ouch. The engineer had recommended that we lay our hands on a genuine Perkins part but they don't appear to exist at present. Reluctantly, I ordered another pump from the aforementioned as we need to keep the boat moving. It's in and working, but the engineer once again commented that it didn't feel particularly high in quality. I'd like to have a genuine unit gathering dust if and when this one lets go. A shame as I've used parts4engines on numerous occasions without problem but one, potentially two duff pumps is beginning to make me wonder.

I think there is something strange going on here, p4e supply quality gear in my experience. The pump is not in a very awkward position. Locking the engine up with timing pins takes about 10 mins. Taking the timing belt off another couple of minutes and thenthe pump is staring you in the face. A couple of hoses off and some bolts around the flange of the pump and its off. Half an hour tops. Then clean the face of the block up, there are no gaskets, and fit the new one. A job that should take about an hour and a half. I would be interested to see how much they charged you to do it.

 

[alexincornwall]

I think there is something strange going on here, p4e supply quality gear in my experience. The pump is not in a very awkward position. Locking the engine up with timing pins takes about 10 mins. Taking the timing belt off another couple of minutes and thenthe pump is staring you in the face. A couple of hoses off and some bolts around the flange of the pump and its off. Half an hour tops. Then clean the face of the block up, there are no gaskets, and fit the new one. A job that should take about an hour and a half. I would be interested to see how much they charged you to do it.

Ok, perhaps I should have used clearer wording. It's the position of the engine that makes this job awkward, not necessarily the position of the pump. On our boat (Bowman 40), the front of the engine is very close to the hull meaning that a regular pulley pusher will not fit into the available space. I spent the day with the engineer and can vouch that he wasn't working through the job unnecessarily slowly or stopping for multiple breaks! The pump doesn't use a traditional gasket, it uses an RTV gasket.

I've examined the faulty P4E unit and it is quite clear that the coolant is leaking from the drip hole at the seal of the water pump. The second one has now failed in exactly the same place.

 

[Beneteau381]

Ok, perhaps I should have used clearer wording. It's the position of the engine that makes this job awkward, not necessarily the position of the pump. On our boat (Bowman 40), the front of the engine is very close to the hull meaning that a regular pulley pusher will not fit into the available space. I spent the day with the engineer and can vouch that he wasn't working through the job unnecessarily slowly or stopping for multiple breaks! The pump doesn't use a traditional gasket, it uses an RTV gasket.

I've examined the faulty P4E unit and it is quite clear that the coolant is leaking from the drip hole at the seal of the water pump. The second one has now failed in exactly the same place.

Thanks for that clarification. Also why do you need to use a pulley pusher?

 

[alexincornwall]

Thanks for that clarification. Also why do you need to use a pulley pusher?

Because you can't get to the water pump with removing the timing gear cover (I think the technical term is a splash guard?). To get the cover off the idler and camshaft pulleys need to come off.

 

[PetesZZZ]

@alexincornwall: Did you ever solve the issue of taking the fresh water pump off your Bowman 40 Prima ? I have a 1991 Bowman 40 with exactly the same issue of a leaking coolant pump. The rear of the timing case has to come off, and the Injection Fuel Pump pulley must come off.
However there is not room to use a conventional / general pulley puller. And it is not possible really to make a whole in the surrounding engine case / furniture to make room for a gernal purpose puller, as the wood is structural to the Bilges and Battery box. I wonder what your solution was to the problem ?
Did you move the engine ? Or were you able to make up a special part to pull off the injection pump pulley ? Or did you change the whole engine !

 

[alexincornwall]

@alexincornwall: Did you ever solve the issue of taking the fresh water pump off your Bowman 40 Prima ? I have a 1991 Bowman 40 with exactly the same issue of a leaking coolant pump. The rear of the timing case has to come off, and the Injection Fuel Pump pulley must come off.
However there is not room to use a conventional / general pulley puller. And it is not possible really to make a whole in the surrounding engine case / furniture to make room for a gernal purpose puller, as the wood is structural to the Bilges and Battery box. I wonder what your solution was to the problem ?
Did you move the engine ? Or were you able to make up a special part to pull off the injection pump pulley ? Or did you change the whole engine !

Welcome to the B40 family @PetesZZZ. Our engineer very kindly took a hacksaw to his own pulley puller in order to get around the bulkhead issue, it was the only way to avoid desperate measures! Either way, it is very close and we did have to sacrifice a small patch of soundproofing. I'm going to send you a private message re your Bowman...

 

[alexincornwall]

Hi @PetesZZZ,

For some reason, a private message won''t send. So I suppose it will have to be public!

If you're interested, there is a small group of us Bowman 40 owners that have formed an informal club where we share questions, advice etc. on B40 specific topics via email and/or WhatsApp. Many of the members have owned their boats for a long time and there is a huge amount of experience within the group. If you'd like to be signed up, please let me have your email address which I'll forward on to the unofficial administrator who would be delighted to get you "setup". I can be reached at callisteralex@me.com

Cheers!

Alex

 

[PetesZZZ]

Hi Alex, many thanks for your reply. I will move ahead with making a special puller which does not need so much space. I'll be in touch directly as well. Best wishes, Pete