Lucas Gan
Active member
The only screw is now found in the centre of the inner side. I have checked many times these days. But happy to recheck.
Failed to remove the shaft coupling
- Thread starter Lucas Gan
- Start date
vas
Well-known member
Lucas, curious to know how you checked, a/f is there, ok maybe one screw inside is protruding, other on the other side may not, don't have to, on mine with a couple of coats of a/f you have no idea where the screws are, bet on most boats it's like that.
OK, don't have experience on boats built over the pond, doubt they are that different!
Please do us a favour and scrape the a/f, no big deal, don't forget it's going to be destroyed if you end up flaming the rubber off anyway
V.
Lucas Gan
Active member
Keith-i
Well-known member
Looks to me like there's another indentation above the grub screw you have found. Clean all the a/f off an inspect all the way round IIWY.
Lucas Gan
Active member
Nothing there. Just a bit AF came off. I can be 100% sure only one screw on the whole thing.
vas
Well-known member
I take it the pic is before removing the screw and you have checked the depth of the hole is the distance to the bush plus a few mill.
Mr Googler
Well-known member
Itama?
Lucas Gan
Active member
Ok. Looks like I need to change my plan not to replace it as it's too difficult to remove. Two new holes saw worn out but still couldn't finish the two big holes on another two places. I am done with that drilling!
The good news is that I managed to make the shaft turns by hand now after pulling the shaft slip backwards and forward many times with a lot of grease in it. Maybe this is the thing I should do earlier rather than trying to replace the bearings. The price is that the middle of the shaft is full of sharp scratches made by the pipe wrench. My finger also gets a small cut by that sharp on the shaft. But since the middle of the shaft scratches won't affect anything else. So I can live with it anyway.
Now the plan becomes just to put everything back, install the new seals, reattach the coupling, then paint the AF, and replace all anodes. Then hopefully back to water next Monday.
I feel relieved once the plan changed!
The good news is that I managed to make the shaft turns by hand now after pulling the shaft slip backwards and forward many times with a lot of grease in it. Maybe this is the thing I should do earlier rather than trying to replace the bearings. The price is that the middle of the shaft is full of sharp scratches made by the pipe wrench. My finger also gets a small cut by that sharp on the shaft. But since the middle of the shaft scratches won't affect anything else. So I can live with it anyway.
Now the plan becomes just to put everything back, install the new seals, reattach the coupling, then paint the AF, and replace all anodes. Then hopefully back to water next Monday.
I feel relieved once the plan changed!
Croftie
Active member
You mean we cannot look forward to another 15 pages
Just make sure you can turn the shaft easily after you put the grubscrew back in, don't want it nipping up the bearing/shaft so it wont turn!
Drop of loctite on the threads?
Just make sure you can turn the shaft easily after you put the grubscrew back in, don't want it nipping up the bearing/shaft so it wont turn!
Drop of loctite on the threads?
Lucas Gan
Active member
I could pass out if there are another 15 pages to deal with more and more unexpected problems. So hopefully my boat will be back to water on or before the 16th page.
The grub screw was already backed in while I scratching the shaft by the wrench.
I just hammer the port side new coupling in. Very hard, but should be ok. Now made it 80% in already. The plan is to finish two shafts seals and coupling tonight. Still working in the boat at the moment.
The grub screw was already backed in while I scratching the shaft by the wrench.
I just hammer the port side new coupling in. Very hard, but should be ok. Now made it 80% in already. The plan is to finish two shafts seals and coupling tonight. Still working in the boat at the moment.
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Lucas Gan
Active member
Okay, I think I made the shaft in the split coupling already. But it will make the shaft around 40mm longer than before. Because the last 40mm in the new coupling can not move any further. And now the stop point inside the coupling is just right at the coupling hole diameter changing point. The new coupling has around 40mm long at the flange end which its diameter is 5mm bigger (49.5mm) than the shaft(44.45mm), which made the last 40mm part of the keyway slot also 2.5mm shallower than the normal (5.5mm). So, if the shaft continues to go in that last 40mm will make the shaft end has 40mm no contact to the coupling, and the key (76mm long) has more than 53% long sitting in a half shallower slot. So I think it's okay to stop just right here to keep the key all inside the normal full depth part of the keyway slot. Also, I can not make the shaft move in any future anyway. I checked the propeller side end won't touch the rudder with that extra 40mm.
Am I right about this split style coupling installation? Thanks.
Am I right about this split style coupling installation? Thanks.
Attachments
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Lucas Gan
Active member
Jesus Christ! The original gearbox and coupling flange bolts are M11 sizes 45mm long. But they are too short now because the new coupling flange is 3mm thicker than the old one. So I have to find some 50mm long M11 bolts which are not available in the local store.
Maybe I will just need to use M10 or M12 instead.
Maybe I will just need to use M10 or M12 instead.
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penfold
Well-known member
M11? Really? Not an imperial size? M11 is a very non-standard size and you may need to have them made, almost easier to have the flange altered for M12.
Tradewinds
Well-known member
7/16" ? Imperial sizes in USA. There are suppliers in the UK looking at Google.
Lucas Gan
Active member
Oh yes, maybe I should call it 7/16" imperial, I measured the diameter as 10.9mm. Because I want the boat back to water next Monday, so I have ordered some stainless M12 in Screwfix and will try to put it in today.
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Seastoke
Well-known member
Does the shaft only sit in the clamped area or does it come closer to the flange, only I would not like to depend just on the clamp .
Lucas Gan
Active member
The shaft now is sitting in the whole clamped area. Like I mentioned above, the coupling flange end has a 40mm long area which the hole diameter is 5mm bigger than the shaft. That said if even I push the shaft 40mm forward to reach the flange, but that last 40mm long shaft will just hanging in the air but not touching the coupling because the hole there is 5mm bigger than the shaft. And the key will have 53% long sitting in a half depth slot which is no good for the power transformation. So, that makes no sense to move forward to reach there to let the shaft hanging in the air. And also, I really cannot make it move any further.
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Seastoke
Well-known member
Hope last piece of your journey goes well .
fisherman
Well-known member
Sorry lucas, not the material for this job. These nuts/bolts are usually fine thread imperial and high tensile. Might be OK for a while, but not long term, order them asap, change later.
