Extension Drawbar For My Trailer

Lakesailor

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We had to use a strop to launch my boat the other week. This has the disadvatage that you can't push the trailer, or steer it when going into the water and that it doesn't stop the trailer and boat tilting up as the slope and extra weight of outboard and rudder unbalance the trailer. Without the motor and rudder on I have 50 kgs noseweight, which is about right.

I decided to make a solid extension that will use the original towhitch and allow me to have an extra 6 feet, in this instance, to keep the back of the car out of the water. I could launch without a strop as the car has a wading depth of 20", but things like a poor handbrake (so I have to stop the engine and put it in gear) means that restarting with the exhaust under water may be exciting. Also when you get in and out of the car you are sloshing about too much.

I have some bits of metal and spare tow ball so I got a 7ft bit of galvanised scaffolding pole (£5) and set to.

This is the pole except for the car-end hitch which I am still awaiting.



Drawbar01.jpg



This bit fits under the end of the winch post bracket

Drawbar02.jpg



This is the new ball that engages on the trailer hitch and a U bracket around the trailer tube to prevent sideways movement

Drawbar03.jpg




This is attaching it. (If you click on the Vimeo logo, bottom right, you can see it full screen in HD)




It's pretty heavy, but as it will ride on the trailer, strapped to the backbone, that isn't a big issue.
 
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sarabande

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nice stuff, I can see the advantages. It should balance up well. Worth a small flip-down stand or even another jockey wheel at the car end so you don't have to pick the bar up from the ground ?
 

Lakesailor

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No need. As you can see the bar is self supporting. The original jockey wheel holds it up and the extra leverage means that connecting to the car is easy. Just have to remember to retract the jockey wheel as it will ground on the top of the slipway ramp.
 

rob2

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Nice neat design. I presume that the spray around all welded components comes from having to grind off the galvanising before welding? I'd be tempted to make a dolly to fit in the extended ball hitch so that it can be manhandled without the car as well - could prove easier to align with the ramp and boat like that, plus of course the dolly can also be used with the original hitch to shunt it around in the yard.

Rob.
 

Lakesailor

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It is galvanising spray primer,which whilst it is really just a zinc primer is pretty good. Having said that it would take years for those bits of metal to corroded away.
There is no benefit in having a dolly. There is plenty of space for launching, and manhandling the boat around on the trailer is not my cup of tea.
 

ffiill

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When many years ago I kept my 19 foot seawitch bilge keeler at Coniston village boat yard we all used one of these to help with launching.
We also fitted the trailers with a pair of plates running longitudinal either side of where the bilges sat and angled out towards the wheels.
As you pulled the trailer out and the boat began to settle these guided the bilge keels down onto the trailer.
Whilst there was a tractor available for launches I used to do it single handed with my 4x4.
We kept our boats ashore because of a lack of moorings on Coniston.
 

William_H

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Nice photos of a good system Phil. Well done. I did get a small trailer made many years ago where the square section draw bar had an extending square section inside with the hitch attached. It had a big pin to lock it in extended or retracted position. I tended to use it extended even when used as a box trailer because it made backing so much easier with long draw bar. good luck olewill
 

Lakesailor

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Yes. That is a good idea, but would need a bit more consideration on the safety aspect. This one will only get used in 1st gear around the slipway. I wouldn't be keen to use it on the road, as the bracket for the towball is relying on my welds!
 

William_H

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Yes. That is a good idea, but would need a bit more consideration on the safety aspect. This one will only get used in 1st gear around the slipway. I wouldn't be keen to use it on the road, as the bracket for the towball is relying on my welds!

Yes Phil I have similar problems with my welding. I tend to want to paint it quickly to cover the mess. I have come to rely on the structural strength of paint but am frequently dissapointed. olewill
 

Lakesailor

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I managed some very nice welds with lots of penetration (not too visible in the shots I displayed.) I know that they would need a lot of work at the destruction testing lab (lump hammer and crowbar). However I always have reservations about welded galvanised steel. I don't know why, as we built grass track racers using it in the '70s and they survived crashes and rolls perfectly well.
I know a guy in Windermere who had a terrible accident when a four wheel trailer became detached from a wagon and hit his car head-on. I wouldn't want to be the cause of something like that.
 

Lakesailor

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I know well about it. I grind the galv off (for a better weld) and use a cartridge filter mask.
The milk drinking thing has been debunked. I am lactose intolerant anyway.
I did once get a touch of fume fever. As I have a susceptible throat anyway I suffered quite badly.
Always do it outside and never weld from above.
 
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