Computer 12 fans for better airflow

srm

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Might I suggest insulation of hull and decks to keep the boat comfortable in both hot and cold conditions. Though of course modern plastic fantastic has led to the loss of designed/built in natural ventilation so most boats need some additions in this area.
 

dancrane

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I used that soft felt van-lining to help insulate the bulkheads, when the nasty foam-backed vinyl disintegrated in my Achilles.

The van-lining was amazing - a single 2-metre by 1-metre section (£10) covered the bulkheads behind the berths on both sides.

I had dreaded going head-first into the pilot-berths to apply adhesive, but I discovered the van-lining adhered naturally to the rough weave of the GRP behind, like Velcro but not so stiff. I didn't need any glue at all - the stuff just stuck and stayed in place, unless I wanted to move it.

But it's true, if a cold night followed a day when we'd been aboard, there'd always be condensation on the windows, so an active vent would help. If I had kept the boat I would have fitted the standard £65 'solarvent' sold by Force 4...

51846936930_5c3d36ceab.jpg


...it may not be the cheapest or most efficient, but its size is exactly the same as the dimensions of the standard (passive, apparently useless) vent fitted to the Achilles' coachroof, so it would be a quick fit-and-forget job. I think the interior of an Achilles 24 cabin is so small, the modest volume of air shifted by the solar-vent would do the trick.
 

FairweatherDave

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To answer my own question on computer fans I have seen one rated at 0.2A, so that would be 2.4 watts. So approximately 60Watt hours a day. My 50 watt panel should comfotably be able to keep the batteries topped up and permanently run a computer fan over winter with no other draw. I just am new to the concept of leaving something running 24/7 with no mains.
 

slawosz

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Slawosz, I thought for a long time about fitting a solar-vent for my Achilles...

...but the better solution by far, was simply to stop the rain getting in.
I think I will focus on this - stopping the rain. I think front hatch could be the culprit. Although I am thinking about building a skirt around os I would have a 'pool' on the deck, pour water inside and inspect all possible ingress points.
I have a solar vent that is barely working during winter. Maybe I should buy a good one from chandlery instead of 'cheap' from ebay? Although not sure if their quality would differ....

Anyway, I have bought 2 12V fans on ebay, now I need to think about some device that would cut power when there is less than say 12.2 V in the system - so it won't drain my battery, as I have only 20 W solar panel.

On my Achilles, the three-section square-profile tubular traveller also leaked, so I caulked the joins. If you have the same shape of traveller, the design forms a gutter and rain dribbles gradually but inevitably to port and starboard, from where the 40+ year old sealant may be letting water inside the tubing, and straight through the deck.

I have early version and the mainsheet traveller is across cocpit, which makes putting engine to the well even more fun ;)
 

oilybilge

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Anyway, I have bought 2 12V fans on ebay, now I need to think about some device that would cut power when there is less than say 12.2 V in the system - so it won't drain my battery, as I have only 20 W solar panel.

Most solar controllers have a Low Voltage Disconnect which will do exactly this.

OTOH, given that you probably don't need a solar controller with your 20w panel, you can buy a cheap Low Voltage Disconnect module.

Edit: Yes, something like that
 
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MattS

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I have a couple of these which I clip to bulkheads and have circulating some air around the aft cabin etc.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01A6X7B4S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been running them off the 240V using mains USB plugs (Which I leave connected for battery charger / dehumidifier during the winter).

But you could imagine having some USB sockets wired into the load outputs of the Solar controller (wired independently to the main domestic 12v circuits) so that you could use the automatic cut off from the solar controller to avoid running down the battery, without having to leave all of your domestic circuits connected. I might do this for next year.
 
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