Javelin
Well-known member
I've just watched a video released on Facebook from Yachting Monthly giving anode advice.
Pretty happy with most of it until they got to bonding - ie, linking up anodes inside with engine, gearbox etc.
Again, can live with the advice for GRP hulls but even then I worry about daisy chaining the internal links as it often leads to more trouble.
Where I really have issues is bonding anodes on classics and wooden hulls that rely on water to get the hull to "take up" as opposed to wooden hulls that are either sheathed or epoxy coated.
The issue is that wet wood is a conductor and you can end up turning your classic yacht into a big battery.
We see this very often around stern gear, rudder posts, P and A brackets and the ballast keel.
Also its a cause of blowing iron fasteners on older boats.
Better to get an anode asphysically close to the metal you want to protect rather than internal connections.
Pretty happy with most of it until they got to bonding - ie, linking up anodes inside with engine, gearbox etc.
Again, can live with the advice for GRP hulls but even then I worry about daisy chaining the internal links as it often leads to more trouble.
Where I really have issues is bonding anodes on classics and wooden hulls that rely on water to get the hull to "take up" as opposed to wooden hulls that are either sheathed or epoxy coated.
The issue is that wet wood is a conductor and you can end up turning your classic yacht into a big battery.
We see this very often around stern gear, rudder posts, P and A brackets and the ballast keel.
Also its a cause of blowing iron fasteners on older boats.
Better to get an anode asphysically close to the metal you want to protect rather than internal connections.