Antifouling Newbie

Joined
7 Jun 2021
Messages
65
Visit site
Good Morning all,

I’m calling on the worldly wisdom of ybw again. I need some advice on antifouling as I’ve never done it before.

This is the current condition of the hull:
A99DE38A-4360-4F82-9E54-5770A25113F5.jpeg

The current antifouling is micron350 and for simplicity purposes I’m going to be redoing it with more of the same ?

From all the threads I’ve read everyone likes a simple job like me so the feeling seems to be just slap it on.

Hull has been pressure washed and this has cleaned it back well. My plan is to scrapany flakey bits off the get to work with the paint straight on top.

Does this sound okay? Given the condition do you think I need to prime with primocon or just crack on?

Once again thanks for the incoming advice, it’s appreciated.

Warren
 

Tranona

Well-known member
Joined
10 Nov 2007
Messages
40,729
Visit site
yes, just scrape off the flaky bits and recoat. Unlikely but if there are any patches back to gel coat then prime (Primocon) before AF. Suggest you clean off the old AF around the lower bearing housing and use Trilux as suggested in your other thread about rudder issues. Probably do that when you have the rudder out - if it is still coming out.
 
Joined
7 Jun 2021
Messages
65
Visit site
yes, just scrape off the flaky bits and recoat. Unlikely but if there are any patches back to gel coat then prime (Primocon) before AF. Suggest you clean off the old AF around the lower bearing housing and use Trilux as suggested in your other thread about rudder issues. Probably do that when you have the rudder out - if it is still coming out.

Thought of your advice yesterday when I was in foxes and bought the trilux. Ouch.

Rudder is out now and awaiting the bearings after lots and lots of swearing and “persuasion” with big hammers and wedges. It was definitely stuck fast. Play to do the top of the rudder and around the housing in trilux along with the saildrive leg. Sound about right?
 

Tranona

Well-known member
Joined
10 Nov 2007
Messages
40,729
Visit site
Thought of your advice yesterday when I was in foxes and bought the trilux. Ouch.

Rudder is out now and awaiting the bearings after lots and lots of swearing and “persuasion” with big hammers and wedges. It was definitely stuck fast. Play to do the top of the rudder and around the housing in trilux along with the saildrive leg. Sound about right?
You can do the prop as well - although I use the spray for the leg (Velox on the prop blades, folding prop)
 

Bobc

Well-known member
Joined
20 Jan 2011
Messages
9,916
Visit site
All fine, but do not paint copper-based antifouling onto the rudder bearing case, as this causes problems further down the line.
 

Tranona

Well-known member
Joined
10 Nov 2007
Messages
40,729
Visit site
All fine, but do not paint copper-based antifouling onto the rudder bearing case, as this causes problems further down the line.
See post 3,4 and 6 - already discussed at great length on an earlier thread
 

William_H

Well-known member
Joined
28 Jul 2003
Messages
13,626
Location
West Australia
Visit site
It is a sad fact that a boat out of the water and after scrubbing the bottom, as you do when fouling is wet, looks terrible. With blotchy paint on the bottom with often various colours of old a/f paint and patches of no paint. The other sad fact is that it is generally recommended that you re launch within 24 hrs or so of painting a/f.
So in my case I have lovely boat visible and somewhat above level of an adjacent public car park with the blotchy under belly the most obvious part all winter. Looks terrible. But I just have to live with it. Still only about 6 weeks to go. Then back in the water. Then no one sees your lovely new bottom paint job anyway. ol'will
 

pvb

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
45,605
Location
UK East Coast
Visit site
That is a new one on me. Some manufacturers suggest max of 3 months, or even more in some cases.
Is it possible that too soon may mean the gantry straps damage the paint if still not properly cured?

Correct - it's much longer than 24 hours!

In my experience, the slings of a boat hoist won't damage antifoul if it's had around a day to dry. I got my boat lifted back in today after antifouling and polishing.

antifoul.jpg
 

pvb

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
45,605
Location
UK East Coast
Visit site
It is, enhanced by having exclusive use of the centre aisle of a vacant car park, impressed that there is no antifouling on the pristine bitmac.

If you look closely, there are a few splodges on the ground! It's a filthy job, but I only do it every 2 years thankfully.
 

Neeves

Well-known member
Joined
20 Nov 2011
Messages
12,076
Location
Sydney, Australia.
Visit site
Don't skimp with the AF. You will find on the tin, or spec sheet, a rough indication of how much paint to use on a certain sized yacht. The paint manufacturer actually has a coating thickness in mind when they develop these litres,/boat length and if you eke the paint out and this results in a thinner coating then the AF life will be impacted. This saves paint but means in the longer term your AF life is reduced and you will need to slip again earlier than would have occurred if you had used, roughly, the mount the paint company had recommended. So more of your time and maybe you will need to slip (at some cost) every year instead of every 2 years.

If you eke it out - then give it a second coat - if you only have a little bit left - double coat the water line and leading edges.

And stir well - the pigment (active ingredient) in the AF is heavy and soon sinks, keep stirring it as you use it

Take care, stay safe

Jonathan
 
Top