Anti-foul

Cowie

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Currently looking to change anti-foul from Internationl Micro 350 to Hempel Tigar or SeaJet

Thoughts on the products the boat is only in for 6 months of the year then wintered ashore and
bottom is sanded and fair for up coming season.
 

Neeves

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Dry sail.

Jotun make some exceptionally good product. Note that for Cu-Pro its for speeds upto 30 knots - how often do you achieve that? - and for vessels used regularly.

For AF - you get what you pay for. Follow the instructions, use the recommended coating thickness and you will achieve results commensurate with costs. Some people, because their AF is expensive use insufficient, or don't use their yachts frequently, or do not sail fast enough -

The reason International are still in business is because most people, most of the time are happy. If they did not meet expectation - it would be all over 'social media'.

We are harsh critics.

Jonathan
 

ChromeDome

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For AF - you get what you pay for.

Might be, but you shouldn't pay more than the best offer for same product/technology.

Suggest you decide on the requirements:
  • 6 months ✔
  • usage pattern?
  • boat speed?
  • location (different locations return different results from same product due to light/temp/water quality)?
  • application prep (wash or sand, primer refresh)?
  • desired technology (self polishing, thin-film, teflon or biocide)?
  • compatible with existing?
  • time allowed between application and launch?
  • lasts for more seasons (tolerates 6 months on the hard)?
  • colour wanted/needed?
  • cost?
  • other...?
 

stephen_h

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Jotun make some exceptionally good product. Note that for Cu-Pro its for speeds upto 30 knots - how often do you achieve that? - and for vessels used regularly.

It's for up to 30 knots - you don't have to do 30 knots!

It has a high copper content. People have thought we have applied coppercoat, after lift out!
We only apply every 2 years though it would go to 3 with a few more intermediate scrubs.
 

Neeves

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Jotun make a range of anti fouls based on their own and a Japanese partner's technology.

One component in their range is Sea Quantum. SQ is sold for 4 specific vessel applications, the details of which I forget. One part of the range is for vessels that are laid up, at anchor -stationary. One is for slow moving vessels, leisure yachts and tugboats. One part of the range is for high speed vessels, very fast ferries and I forget what the 4th application is.

They recognise that AF needs different formulations dependent on speed. To have a AF that operates from zero to 30 knots seems contradictory - a bit like CC which does not work too well at low speeds or stationary - you need water flow (or some other action).

We have used SQ Ultra - it gives us 2 years life, but then so does Hempel's Globic and some of International's offerings. How do I know - I've tested them against each other and some of the cheaper products from the same companies.

But if we were commissioning a new yacht - we would opt for CC - but then we sail at averages of 10 knots - a sweet speed for CC. But if your maximum speed is 5 knots and you can only get on the water once a month - CC might not be as good.

Horses for courses.

With AF there is no one right answer, you cannot be (or you can but it is not very useful) dogmatic.

Jonathan
 

Cowie

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Dry sail.

Jotun make some exceptionally good product. Note that for Cu-Pro its for speeds upto 30 knots - how often do you achieve that? - and for vessels used regularly.

For AF - you get what you pay for. Follow the instructions, use the recommended coating thickness and you will achieve results commensurate with costs. Some people, because their AF is expensive use insufficient, or don't use their yachts frequently, or do not sail fast enough -

The reason International are still in business is because most people, most of the time are happy. If they did not meet expectation - it would be all over 'social media'.

We are harsh critics.

Jonathan
Thank you for your feed back, I have dried sailed my boats for years from 1/4,1/2,3/4, 1 Tonner's so forth. I would recommend 2800/3000 grit to get a base for the bottom anything else and your not even trying followed by spray wax
So been there move on when I apply A.F it is sprayed no other way.

I have used International VC offshore fine product and various others over the years I never said about the quailty of it I am just look for a change simple and if the change is incorrect i'll remove it wet'n'dry & return to International spray it back on.
Might even look at the electronic platform as well all options are on and off the table

Cowie
 

Neeves

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Cow,

Testing AF, or trying different suppliers, and using top of the range from each is a thankless task. It is all too subjective.

The effectiveness of each formulation will vary.

The variation will be a function of the specific formulations in the environment of the seasons, some summers are warmer, some summers are warmer but the sea is cooler etc etc. Your observation on effectiveness will also vary dependent on what 'type' of fouling occurs.

My conclusion testing AF applied in strips down the hull was that the top of the range products from the various leading players were 'similar', so similar that (on reflection) you cannot tell the difference. I actually preferred Jotun Sea Quantum but - as I said - its subjective.

The differences then come down to cost, availability, packing (some of the better AF only come in large drums - too heavy to lift) and whether you like their shade of red, or blue vs another supplier. The colour itself has no impact on performance (I did not try 'white').


If you race, as opposed to cruise, its a different equation. You will be weight conscious and AF adds to weight (I know its not much - but its part of a philosophy (lots of little extra weights add up). Dry sailing is the answer, no AF, no absorbed water, bone dry bilges etc and you can fair the hull (I thought polishing with a surface tension reducing product was banned? but maybe it was releasing a surface tension reducing product??). There is a cost to dry sailing - but then there is a cost to using AF. If you race to win then you will be investing in good sails etc etc and the cost of dry sailing is just part of that equation.

Illustrating some of the differences - here Etchells at the top of their game are all dry sailed and there is a separate series for 'wet' Etchells - weight matters. When we raced in HK I paid the same rate to dry sail as keeping the yacht in the water. I freed up a berth and had lifts in and out as often as I wanted as part of my dry berth cost. Every Monday she was lifted to her cradle and every Friday put back in the water. During the week we could wet and dry the hull - if necessary. Along with a good crew - it was successful - we have the trophies.

BUT - you need good crew, you need well kept sails, you need to manage carrying extra weight (beer or water). Its all part of that philosophy.

Jonathan
 

Cowie

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Hi
Thanks for the in-depth info all good points, regarding temperature there has been increased grow in this area over the last few years, but more on the slim on a few of the boats no doubt many variations.
As to the weight side weight is only essentialon a steam roller, this is a area less just say this is area i could spend all day talking about ( The Dark Side )
Waxing / polishing the bottoms all standard here harken do a fine product but diffrent folk diffrent strokes. On the polishing / Waxing front guess that could be the same as AF its what works best for the indavidual.
We'll see how it goes for the upcoming season

I use to sail out of a place call Mornington back in the day lovely place

Cowie
 

michael_w

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Another vote for Cu-Pro. I've used it for the past few seasons. It's good stuff and the company who sell it, SML Coatings, are a delight to do business with.
 
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