Toilet seacock 1.5" need to replace

Rhylsailer99

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The wood around is rotten and when I unblocked the toilet I discovered the valve does not shut off. I am lifting out next week for 4 weeks so what would be a good replacement thanks.
 

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Pete7

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OMG, we haven't seen anything like that for a while :eek:

A nice Tru Design 1.5" valve with a matching 90 Deg bend will do once you have a new backing piece glassed in. you will want to change that hose for the proper white sanitation hose if you going to do the job properly. Oh and two clips on the hose please, screws opposite each other.

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Pete
 

Rhylsailer99

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OMG, we haven't seen anything like that for a while :eek:

A nice Tru Design 1.5" valve with a matching 90 Deg bend will do once you have a new backing piece glassed in. you will want to change that hose for the proper white sanitation hose if you going to do the job properly. Oh and two clips on the hose please, screws opposite each other.

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Pete
Maybe put something like below in the pic be safer thanks
 

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dankilb

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+1 for Trudesign. We’re in the process of fitting 6 of them to replace the old (DZR) valves.

I made the backing plates out of epoxy/biaxial sheet I laid up and cut them out with holesaw/carbide grit jigsaw blade.

The DZR varieties just don’t inspire confidence. Not all of the parts appear equally corrosion resistant. The ones I removed were in a very sorry state (after approx 13 years, admittedly). A few disintegrated completely during removal. ?
 

Spirit (of Glenans)

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The valve in the photo is a gate valve, the use of which as a seacock is not considered good practice, so either the DZR type or the composite type of ball valve are what you should be using. If you have space to use the latter you will only have to the job once, rather than every five years or so.
Some attention should be paid to identifying and rectifying the source of the water which caused the backing pad to rot.
 

john_morris_uk

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The Truedesign ones appear to be excellent (I've no experience except when handling them in the chandlers) but they're quite big and chunky. Not a problem if you've got the space, but I'm currently researching seacocks for our daughter's Pandora and the Truedesign ones won't fit into the available space under the bunk where it's got to go.
 

Plum

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+1 for Trudesign. We’re in the process of fitting 6 of them to replace the old (DZR) valves.

I made the backing plates out of epoxy/biaxial sheet I laid up and cut them out with holesaw/carbide grit jigsaw blade.

The DZR varieties just don’t inspire confidence. Not all of the parts appear equally corrosion resistant. The ones I removed were in a very sorry state (after approx 13 years, admittedly). A few disintegrated completely during removal. ?
Interesting. That is not my experience of the DZR ball valves from ASAP. I have had at least 15 years service from them without a problem.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 

peter gibbs

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Theyre all bad to be honest hence why I am lifting out for a few weeks to get them right.
This could be serious - A10 cans to the ready!

The hull apertures must be refashioned to form a firm base- a dab of fibreglass won't do.

Strongly recommend for ease of use, replace taps with ballcock valves

When the new fixing is installed there will be torsion as well as compression and this could damage a newly formed hole in the hull.

PWG
 

dankilb

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Interesting. That is not my experience of the DZR ball valves from ASAP. I have had at least 15 years service from them without a problem.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
The origin of ours was unknown - fitted in previous ownership (but helpfully labelled with the date). The threaded sections of both the valves and the skin fittings had corroded badly, between the valve and the hull.


Used ASAP/Maestrini (or whatever they’re called!) fittings elsewhere and they’ve always seemed decent quality.
 

vyv_cox

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The origin of ours was unknown - fitted in previous ownership (but helpfully labelled with the date). The threaded sections of both the valves and the skin fittings had corroded badly, between the valve and the hull.


Used ASAP/Maestrini (or whatever they’re called!) fittings elsewhere and they’ve always seemed decent quality.
Were they definitely DZR, marked as such with CR or (more recently) DZR? AFAIK skin fittings and hose tails in DZR have only been available for a few years.
 

dankilb

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Were they definitely DZR, marked as such with CR or (more recently) DZR? AFAIK skin fittings and hose tails in DZR have only been available for a few years.
Will check next time. Still got 3 to be removed. I actually assumed anything not bronze (or SS, etc.) was DZR, didn’t know it was a new thing. Couldn’t be straight brass, though, surely wouldn’t have survived any time at all? Corroded areas were pink and crumbly (presumed dezincified!).
 

Gary Fox

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Tru Design are much bulkier than the ASAP DZR ones, and the choice of fittings to fit your particular boat is smaller; you might not have room for them.
 

Jamie Dundee

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I’m just replacing my inlet with an ASAP skin fitting, ball valve and hose tail. I ordered Trudesign fittings from Leesan but after 5 weeks waiting with no definite deliver date in sight I cancelled and went traditional.
 

RJJ

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Will check next time. Still got 3 to be removed. I actually assumed anything not bronze (or SS, etc.) was DZR, didn’t know it was a new thing. Couldn’t be straight brass, though, surely wouldn’t have survived any time at all? Corroded areas were pink and crumbly (presumed dezincified!).
That sounds like brass to me
 

dankilb

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That sounds like brass to me
Every day’s a school day!

Still rate their TruDesign replacements, mind. I did have a long wait for ours (from Leesan and this was pre-C-19), but worth it for the quality. They also fit perfectly - 42ft AWB so plenty of space for the extra bulk, which I appreciate not everyone has.
 
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