Cruise Reports The Greek Ionian - cruise report with lots of pics

[Hardmy]

The Greek Ionian - with pics!

I was stuck in Frankfurt today and there was no sun whatsoever to motivate me going outside. The result is me starting puting together a cruise report 2016 of our second season in the Greek Ionian. In 2015 we explored everything north of Preveza, and this year we covered the area south of Preveza.

But first a couple of works had to be carried out. Beside the usual engines servicing, antifouling and polishing, we had installed new tides shaft seals, an additional redundant bilge pump hooked to the bowthruster batteries and a new hotel battery charger.

Pastoral atmosphere in Preveza:

Then came the surprise to discover just before launching that our rudders were stuck. So everything hat do be dismantled, refurbished and reinstalled:

After a bit of fighting with the yard, the boat came finally on 14.05. in the water.

And now, the most interesting part, our May-June "mini tour de Ionian". First the map with our start on its top:

After having crossed the Levkas canal, we took a heading to the N coast of Meganisi, which many identations offer interesting anchoring opportunities:

The SY in the pic is owned by very friendly french liveaboards. Their website (lepetitmondedetroll.fr) is one of the best source of information for those cruising greek waters

After having also visited Spartachori and Vathy (very convenient for the kid of our friends),

we went to the North tip of Ithaca. It was a bit windy, so we swam and...

continued to a bay from where we could undertake a pleasant walk in the hills above:

Frikes, a nice little place but dangerous because of the superfast ferry which passes every know and then at about 2-3 NM creating a mini tsunami in the harbour (we learned it on the hard way in September 16)

Return to the starting point

Yes I use a snubber, despite jfm saying its useless

More to come...

 

[Hardmy]

Fiskhardo on Keffalonia. It's really a pretty place, but also very popular and often crowded. Even mid-may!

Since southerlies were forecast (such unsettled weather is not uncommon in pre/after season), we decided to visit Assos. The quay is very short and rocks protrude just below the waterline. On top of that, the anchor does not hold well.

There is an impressive venetian castle complex above the village. What we really like in Greece, is that things are mostly unorganised. You just climb around the ruins and explore on your own:

The wind kicked in during the night, and we left for Argostoli before the forecasted 30-40 kts arrived:

The Argostoli town quay is not the place to be with southerlies. The situation was not as bad as shown in the video below. But during the 2-3 days here, we witnessed how yachts were pushed hard against the quay:

Best is to go on anchor or move to the derelict marina with hulks rusting away. There is still some place for visiting yachts though:

We sneaked in the tiny basin of the dinghy sailing club. But the entrance is only 5 meters wide (my boat is 4.50 wide) and there is barely any room for maneuvering:

Robust use of throttles?

Since we could not move, we had oceans of time to rent a car and discover the inland...

 

[vas]

We sneaked in the tiny basin of the dinghy sailing club. But the entrance is only 5 meters wide (my boat is 4.50 wide) and there is barely any room for maneuvering:

blimey!

that's tight, not sure I'd try it even in flat calm!

like the pics, really give the sense of the place, mind it's been ages since I've visited (and that was on a car...)

looking fwrd to the rest of the trip report

cheers

V.

 

[BartW]

well done V !
this is the real cruising, and what is boating all about;
exploring and discovering new and nice places, at your own pace.
any travel organisation can offer that !
thanks for sharing.

 

[Hardmy]

Thanks for the nice words guys. I'll post another instalment as soon as I can.

@vas
There wasn't so much wind at the time we arrived. We were very motivated to go there. No way that we would have moored at the town quay. The derelict marina was already full and we didn't want to anchor for the whole stay.

We entered the basin, with the bow first. Then used a line on the quay starboard side, put port in forward to pivot the stern towards the other quay were we finally moored alongside. We had two helping hands from the club to take lines. For leaving, we went forward along the quay as much as we could, then attached a line on the bow and used the stbd engine in reverse to pivot the stern to port, and align the boat with the exit. The bowthruster came only shortly in action to push the bow towards port, before passing the gap in the wall.

@Bart
I cannot more agree than what to say. Cruising and exploring and leaving a little its own comfort zone is exciting! Actually, I am just following the footsteps of many people like you, who showed how to do it first!

 

[Tranona]

Loved the photos of Assos - and admire your bravery to go in there. Note that the taverna on the quay has the same chairs and tables that it had when I was last there 15 years ago. Had anchored in Fiskardo and hired a car to give my daughter a tour of the island. Always worth doing as there is so much to see, including the winery in the south of the island.

 

[AndieMac]

Another great cruise report from H, good useful info for the new sticky thread, appreciate the effort to compile.

 

[Portofino]

Thx -- nice thread -
What sort of modern "Civilisation" is there?
I mean fuel -bunkering -shopping for ladies ? -opportunities to people watch ? -- restock with food ( and bottled water ) super markets etc ?
looks like a lot of Geny usage every day -what's the shore power availability like ?

It's an itch that needs scratching ,but Corsica and Sardinia are in the way ,or on the way to Greece ,not to mention Mainland Italy .

 

[scubaman]

Good going H! You've picked a great time for the cruise as there doesn't seem to be too many boats around.

Thank you for the report and the beautiful pics!

Btw, couple of the pics are not showing for me. Anyone else have the same?

 

[BartW]

Btw, couple of the pics are not showing for me. Anyone else have the same?

yesterday I could see them all, today a few don't show
(a 'no entry" symbol as if these pics are not allowed )

 

[Tranona]

Thx -- nice thread -
What sort of modern "Civilisation" is there?
I mean fuel -bunkering -shopping for ladies ? -opportunities to people watch ? -- restock with food ( and bottled water ) super markets etc ?
looks like a lot of Geny usage every day -what's the shore power availability like ?

It's an itch that needs scratching ,but Corsica and Sardinia are in the way ,or on the way to Greece ,not to mention Mainland Italy .

Very different from further west. Fuel no problem as truck deliveries to most village quays or on site in the few marinas (only two of any size). Thankfully very little "shopping" except for tourist wares. supplies in any villages.

Not geared up for mobos really, which some say is a good thing. Vast majority of boats are sailboats although they motor most of the time in the morning and sail in the afternoon breeze. Most berths are stern to village quays, and some quays have power, most have water. Step off boat for selection of tavernas for dinner. Plenty of quiet anchorages.

You have to recognise these are small island communities in a country that is nowhere near as developed as other EU states, and most are only active in the summer.

 

[vas]

yesterday I could see them all, today a few don't show
(a 'no entry" symbol as if these pics are not allowed )

8th to 10th pic on first post have a gray no entry symbol instead of the pic.
Something's wrong on the address or permissions?

cheers

V.

 

[Trundlebug]

Loving this post.
The Ionian is probably my favourite area of all, after several happy holidays based in Lefkas.
It remains a dream to cruise the area in our own boat, so lovely to see your photos.

Just one comment, Portofino, what's this talk of genny usage?
With all that wonderful sun, silent solar is plentiful and would be more than adequate for our needs at least.

 

[Portofino]

Loving this post.
The Ionian is probably my favourite area of all, after several happy holidays based in Lefkas.
It remains a dream to cruise the area in our own boat, so lovely to see your photos.

Just one comment, Portofino, what's this talk of genny usage?
With all that wonderful sun, silent solar is plentiful and would be more than adequate for our needs at least.

Just fwd planning -nice to hump around your own 220V as and when needed .
Our bat set up seems fine thus far and we are not afraid to run the Geny to top up @ anchor .
It's just that @ night in high summer we like the Aircon on - in breezeless marinas and mosquito infested areas ,it's vertually silent on shore power .Geny on is ok for fwd cabin ,but not so kind for the crew cabin .

Also solar pannals tacked on willy nilly will cramp my "style " ,bit like fitting bull bars or a roof rack to a Ferrari Nah mate isn,t gonna happen !

 

[Mr Cassandra]

Thanks for posting.I left 1999 very nice to see the area again.

 

[Nick_H]

Great pics, thanks for posting. We cruised some of that area ourselves last summer in a friends yacht and really enjoyed it, though didn't get round the south and west coasts of Kefalonia.

 

[Hardmy]

@All, I tried to reload the pics which seemed not working. Dunno what is the problem, because all pics have the same rights.

… Had anchored in Fiskardo and hired a car to give my daughter a tour of the island. Always worth doing as there is so much to see, including the winery in the south of the island.

Yes, the local grape variety is called robola. We also visited a winery and could try many different wines.

Good going H! You've picked a great time for the cruise as there doesn't seem to be too many boats around.

May-June and September-October are the best months. The only downside is the weather which needs to be more monitored and the lack of flights to the smallest airports.

What sort of modern "Civilisation" is there?
I mean fuel -bunkering -shopping for ladies ? -opportunities to people watch ? -- restock with food ( and bottled water ) super markets etc ?
looks like a lot of Geny usage every day -what's the shore power availability like ?

It's an itch that needs scratching ,but Corsica and Sardinia are in the way ,or on the way to Greece ,not to mention Mainland Italy .

Not so many shopping here, it’s actually the very reason why we like the area. There is some shopping in Argostoli maybe Vathy on Ithaca but much less than in Corfu town anyway (will write a report about that). Not too many nightlife hotspots either. The lack of infrastructure makes it much more fun. The harbors and town quays are not organized. You always moor in med style with your anchor. There are some places where you can get water, or even leccy, but not often. That’s why I have my 300W of solar panels, and I don’t use the aircon anyway. Fuel ist not a problem at all, I have found my reliable suppliers and will share the contacts at the end of the report.

You buy excellent vegetables and fruits (but also olive oil, honey and so on) from local formers or the village market. When on anchor and you waive to a fisher, he will come along and sell / give some of his catch. Every other village has a bakery and/or a small supermarket. Chasing food is actually part of the game.

And then you have an infinite choice of tavernas. Not that you will find very sophisticated food there (of course in bigger towns or Kioni and so on there are also “real” restaurants), but produce is mostly fresh and the setting always beautiful.

Of course is the Ionian close to you French guys. I’m waiting for you. And the route towards the Ionian is also a reward as such!

Not geared up for mobos really, which some say is a good thing. Vast majority of boats are sailboats although they motor most of the time in the morning and sail in the afternoon breeze.

What do you mean Tranona, with the Ionian not being geared for mobos? Actually, the Ionian is the perfect area for mobos. There are very few winds! Speak to the charterers, they use more than 50% of the time their iron donkey. The problem I see in the Ionian, is the avalanche of flotillas. When a battalion of those invade a small town quay, one must stand guard to avoid being damaged…

 

[Tranona]

What do you mean Tranona, with the Ionian not being geared for mobos? Actually, the Ionian is the perfect area for mobos. There are very few winds! Speak to the charterers, they use more than 50% of the time their iron donkey. The problem I see in the Ionian, is the avalanche of flotillas. When a battalion of those invade a small town quay, one must stand guard to avoid being damaged…

The number of boats like yours that cruise there is very small - for the reasons you mention. True the conditions of light winds and flat seas are excellent, but the "chaos" at town quays will put off people used to organised, spacious well staffed marinas.

I kept my sailboat there (mostly Corfu) for 10 years, with 7 years of charter. The engine did 3500 hours in that time. However the weather pattern is ideal. 3 or 4 hours motoring in the morning to heat the water up and get the beer cold. Anchor for swim and lunch then usually 3 or so hours of sailing to a quay for the night. Hopefully getting moored after the wind dies and there is still room on the quay.

Very few Greeks keep their boats in the Ionian, although you do get a good number of the jet set in Corfu, particularly in Gouvia. Many more MOBOs on the eastern side of the country closer to Athens.

 

[Hardmy]

True the conditions of light winds and flat seas are excellent, but the "chaos" at town quays will put off people used to organised, spacious well staffed marinas.

And I hope, the chaos will never change, Tranona! And its not as bad as it sounds, one needs just to act a bit anticyclic Where are you based now, if I may ask? Did you leave Greece?

 

[Hardmy]

There are many things to do on Keffalonia, despite the big 1953 earthquake which destroyed most of its venetian / british architecture.

As we walked past Kefalos Municipal Theatre in Argostoli, we heard music coming out from it. As we were trying to find out what was going on, local people immediately invited us to join the auditorium and watch traditional dancing from local groups.

Gerassimos monastery

Diros caves

Melissani lake. It is part of an interesting natural phenomena. Seawater is sucked in the west part of the island near Argostoli, mixes with fresh water, and exits in the bay of Sami.

Mt Ainos, the highest peak of the Ionian (1628 meters).

The whole area is part of a national park and there are trekking trails through untouched nature.

It feels like alps at sea, in the winter one can even snowshoe!

As soon as the weather settled, we continued our trip along the S-coast of Keffalonia.