Wood preserver

J

john williams

Active Member
Joined
14 Aug 2010
Messages
56
Visit site
Hi
I've been using expensive branded stuff to treat the unvarnished woodwork on my old boat for some years
but wonder if any cheaper alternatives are recommended by forum members?
what did the old chaps use years ago I wonder?
The boat is a Morecambe Bay Prawner

Thanks
 
Probably the most durable wood preserver is copper chrome arsenate, used for 'Tanalising' structural timber but it is an aqueous solution so needs vaccuum pressure application to penetrate effectively, the same for all the cheaper water based solutions. The problem is that you need an expensive solvent to get even limited penetration by brush or spray, soaking is better but again limited in durability. No matter how powerful the poison it will not last unless it can be made to penetrate.
Important to note that many of these things are very powerful poisons which demand considerable care when handling both during and after application, so if you get something from a builders supplier read the safety instructions.
 
john williams said:
Hi
I've been using expensive branded stuff to treat the unvarnished woodwork on my old boat for some years
Click to expand...

What do you mean by "treat"? Are you talking about Boracol? Or some sort of coating?

If it's Boracol, there isn't anything as effective at preserving the wood. Patio Magic, etc, will clean it, but not preserve it.
 
john williams said:
Hi
I've been using expensive branded stuff to treat the unvarnished woodwork on my old boat for some years
but wonder if any cheaper alternatives are recommended by forum members?
what did the old chaps use years ago I wonder?
The boat is a Morecambe Bay Prawner

Thanks
Click to expand...

The most practical and effective coating for wood is a porous woodstain. you can use either a dedicated marine formulation such as International Woodskin or one used for applications such as exterior doors and window frames. Various brands available such as Sikkens, Sadolin, ronseal, Dulux from a DIY store.
 
I suspect I misread the OP, I had presumed he was asking for advice on preserving uncoated timber, but if it is really choice of a timber coating such as Woodskin or an epoxy primer that is sought, my advice is not relevant and can safely be ignored.
 
john williams said:
Hi
what did the old chaps use years ago I wonder?
Click to expand...

Old fishing-boat builders in Malta used to coat the bare wood in a mixture of linseed oil and paraffin/kerosene. This was applied until the wood could not absorb any more. Not many wooden fishing boats are now being built here (cheaper to have large builds in neighbouring Sicily) but those builders who replace damaged frames or planks tend to carry on with the tradition.
FWIW.
 
PuffTheMagicDragon said:
Old fishing-boat builders in Malta used to coat the bare wood in a mixture of linseed oil and paraffin/kerosene. This was applied until the wood could not absorb any more. Not many wooden fishing boats are now being built here (cheaper to have large builds in neighbouring Sicily) but those builders who replace damaged frames or planks tend to carry on with the tradition. FWIW.
Click to expand...

Yes, and another natural oil Tung Oil was also used because after it cures, the result is a very hard and easily repaired finish. I have been led to believe it was used on boat decks.
 
Quandary said:
Could be right, too effective to be legal these days? I still have 5l. on a high shelf in my garage but it has been there a long time, I mainly used it by dipping the end grain of cut timber in.
Click to expand...

Yes, the new recipes for treatment of outdoor timbers are so watered down and ineffective that we save some environmental contamination risks, but pay the costs of replacing entire structures at five-year intervals!
 
About 15 years ago my father decided to carve a totem pole from a pine tree that died and had to come down. I dropped it for him, put it on saw horses, and when he was finished, up-righted it into a hole.

The preserve it, I Googled what the NPS uses on totem poles in the US Pacific Northwest. A glycol borate polymer which I home-brewed. I sealed it with left over anti-fouling. 15 years later it is perfect, but the stump is gone.

Then I decided to make a new cockpit grating, but wanted some thing lighter in color and to avoid the expense of teak. By letting the wood (western red cedar) soak in the same mix for several weeks, it is practically pressure treated and can't rot. This works with any wood. I also sealed it with varnish. I've had samples in a compost heap for 5 years and they are still like new.

It will be in Good Old Boat in a month, I think.
 
Take care using Cuprinol in an poorly ventilated space. Having experienced them, I can warn anyone thinking of using it that the effects on your eyes, mouth and skin can be extremely unpleasant.
 
CAPTAIN FANTASTIC said:
Use Creosote, oil based, 4 lts is £9 from B&Q
Click to expand...

Noooooo!!!!! That stuff is 'creosote substitute', it stains everything for months, stinks and washes off in heavy rain, I used it on the outside stair to my garage loft, it also prevents the application of anything else for years. Old engine oil would be as good.
Creosote is another of the effective preservatives that have long since been banned.
 
Quandary said:
Noooooo!!!!! That stuff is 'creosote substitute', it stains everything for months, stinks and washes off in heavy rain, I used it on the outside stair to my garage loft, it also prevents the application of anything else for years. Old engine oil would be as good.
Creosote is another of the effective preservatives that have long since been banned.
Click to expand...

It is still out there but not for Joe Public (bit like decent Jotun antifoul)

https://www.smithandallan.com/products/wood-treatment/1681-bartoline-100-coal-tar-creosote-dark/
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top