Anchor Chain Stop

[Boh999]

Hi!

Aiming to perfect our windlass installation on our 37 feet sloop. We got this from a friend in the Sailing Club.
http://www.anchoring.com/anchor-chain-stopper.html
(similar).

We got 10 mm chain. Chain only, 60 m.

Considering mounting it between the windlass and the anchor roller. To protect the windlass, i.e. will lock towards the anchor, but you may heave up the anchor anytime.

Pros and cons, anybody?

Cheers

 

[Boathook]

None that I can think of unless you forget to lift the stopper up when letting the chain out.

 

[Boh999]

Spot on! Was thinking the same. What if I lift it up and it falls down during deployment?

Cheers

 

[Poignard]

Spot on! Was thinking the same. What if I lift it up and it falls down during deployment?

Cheers

Take the pin out and remove the pawl.

 

[ip485]

I have a rope attached to my chain stopper, which goes to a block in front and then back to the guard rail. Pulling the rope and wrapping it back around the guard rail lifts the stop into the open position. Simples and it is a nuisance when the stopper stops and you dont want it to. To state the obvious try to resist relying on the stopper alone to hold the chain. It can amount to a large snap load of course. Once stopped a spring on the chain and back to a cleat is a much better bet.

The hole on your stopper is probably there for just the purpose, and the rope doesnt need to be very substantial as it isnt taking any load.

 

[Neeves]

We simply use a chain hook, actually a claw, on a dyneema strop with the strop attached to a strong point. Its used as a back up in case of snubber failure, power setting the anchor and when on passage to secure the anchor.

 

[jordanbasset]

We simply use a chain hook, actually a claw, on a dyneema strop with the strop attached to a strong point. Its used as a back up in case of snubber failure, power setting the anchor and when on passage to secure the anchor.

We use something similar

 

[simonfraser]

You’ll need a snubber / chain hook anyway.
Why add another bit of ‘technology’ that is likely to cause further complication ?

 

[GrahamM376]

We simply use a chain hook, actually a claw, on a dyneema strop with the strop attached to a strong point. Its used as a back up in case of snubber failure, power setting the anchor and when on passage to secure the anchor.

We use the same system but not dyneema.

 

[RichardS]

Hi!

Aiming to perfect our windlass installation on our 37 feet sloop. We got this from a friend in the Sailing Club.
http://www.anchoring.com/anchor-chain-stopper.html
(similar).

We got 10 mm chain. Chain only, 60 m.

Considering mounting it between the windlass and the anchor roller. To protect the windlass, i.e. will lock towards the anchor, but you may heave up the anchor anytime.

Pros and cons, anybody?

Cheers

We have a chain lock which acts like a ratchet in the same way. To let chain out you just flip it up out of the way. You can have it flipped down when you haul in as it just makes a clacking noise but we usually leave it flipped up to prevent scraping the zinc off the chain.

It's a great piece of kit and essential on a cat. There's just one thing to be aware of .... when the lock is down and on and you want to release it to drop the chain you have to pull up a couple of inches of chain to free it off. If you were to leave it clacking and wind the chain in tight (not good practice anyway) the lock can drop down but not leave enough slack in the chain to pull the couple of inches up to free it off easily next time. A bit of faffing is then required but, in practice, it's very unlikely to happen.

Richard

 

[RupertW]

We use the same system but not dyneema.

Same here as dyneema seems the least useful choice of all rope types where you want elasticity as the main characteristic to reduce snatch loads on the anchor

 

[GHA]

Same here as dyneema seems the least useful choice of all rope types where you want elasticity as the main characteristic to reduce snatch loads on the anchor

Except it's not a snubber, it's an excellent choice to protect the windlass as you dig the anchor in then if needed a snubber goes on.

 

[Neeves]

Same here as dyneema seems the least useful choice of all rope types where you want elasticity as the main characteristic to reduce snatch loads on the anchor

In order to enjoy elasticity you need a decent length of cordage, or it needs to be thin. For a chain lock, and the stainless one certainly has no elasticity, you need ultimate strength because it is the ultimate fall back (unless you want the windlass to be the ultimate fall back). If you need strength, and the strop is short there is no effective elasticity. You could use a long strop, that's our snubber (bridle).

We use ours to power set - if you have elasticity some of the energy you develop from the engine (to allow the power set) would be used to stretch the strop - not to set the anchor.

Dyneema is a good choice, an elastic strop to set an anchor is counterproductive - and dyneema transfers power from the engine to the rode directly.

Jonathan

 

[Boh999]

We simply use a chain hook, actually a claw, on a dyneema strop with the strop attached to a strong point. Its used as a back up in case of snubber failure, power setting the anchor and when on passage to secure the anchor.

When we sail ARC this fall, we’ll stow the anchor and the dinghy during passage.

I’ll post a picture once we’ve completed the mounting.

Cheers

 

[Poignard]

When we sail ARC this fall, we’ll stow the anchor and the dinghy during passage.

I’ll post a picture once we’ve completed the mounting.

Cheers

I may be mistaken but I seem to remember it being a rule that the anchor had to be taken off the bow roller before leaving the berth. Presumably to reduce the damage resulting from any collision when a lot of yachts are milling around in close quarters.

 

[Neeves]

When we sail ARC this fall, we’ll stow the anchor and the dinghy during passage.

I’ll post a picture once we’ve completed the mounting.

Cheers

Very sensible, whether demanded by rules or not.

When you cross oceans, you really do not want weight on the bow, nor a fluke with large area when you beat to windward. As your anchor gets larger storing the anchor into the bilges become increasingly arduous (and dangerous). The Clipper yacht store their anchors in the forepeak, just forward of the mast. They retrieve using a halyard and its part of their training programme pre race - but they have big crews which will make it easier. On RNLI lifeboats they have dedicated housings on the foredeck for then, Delta, and now, Spade.

But for short passages on yachts that regularly anchor, not very convenient. But ensuring the anchor is secure, whether short day sail or 100nm passage - essential. M.any yacht now seem to have 'flip over' bow rollers that allow the anchor to be stored in the anchor/chain locker

Jonathan

 

[noelex]

Chainstoppers are useful. They act as a one way clutch so they do have some advantages over a simple rope strop, although a strop works reasonably well.

The main drawback is that chainstoppers need to be very strongly mounted. Typically you need some significant backing plates. Installation is often not easy.

There are some better chainstoppers than the type shown in your link, but they are also more expensive. I have not used the type of chainstopper shown but people report they still work well, so I think if you can mount it correctly it would be a useful addition.