Loctite - shelf life once opened

D&T

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Only use a small amount each year to put on the bolts securing prop blades to the hub and for anode bolts.

Does it have a usable life once opened? Still looks as it was when freshly opened. But an expensive mistake if its properties have gone.
 
There are many variants of Loctite for various applications. Best to check the Henkel website (manufacturer) to find the data sheet and shelf life for the specific product you're using. Most of the range is 12 months from date of manufacture, I believe.

I worked for a niche manufacturer of special purpose gearboxes and we used a lot of their products. Most bottles show
a "use by" date on the base, iirc. Much of our product was destined for military use and required a lot of quality assurance documentation so we had an obligation to discard Loctite once "expired".

In contrast, very many people, myself included, seem to have good experience of using it for several years after it's marked expiration date.
 
Thanks, good idea, do you know the cure time?

Depends upon the temperature ( and whether or not you are using an activator) See the technical data sheet for the type of Loctite you are using

Its "tomorrow" now so I will look at my test bolt .... its has been in a warm room for about 9 hours. I did not use the activator. I do not know the type of Loctite because all the writing has worn off the bottle.
Remember this is probably 45 years old possibly older

It is a 6mm BZP nut and bolt ... the nut was a very slack fit on the bolt!

I cannot undo it by hand ...... I have moved it with a small spanner but it is still too tight to turn by hand.


I conclude that after 45 yrs or so it still works OK
 
Loctite is an anaerobic adhesive. It cures by exposure to metal in the absence of air.

That's why the bottle's half full when you buy it. Some of mine's over thirty years old.
 
Slight drift - would loctite work on plastic threads - I have an annoying drip on an expansion tank that has a plastic base with a screw-in plastic connector. I'm thinking of using loctite 577 which is a thread sealant and is safe for potable water.
 
Slight drift - would loctite work on plastic threads - I have an annoying drip on an expansion tank that has a plastic base with a screw-in plastic connector. I'm thinking of using loctite 577 which is a thread sealant and is safe for potable water.
Yep - it will work just fine I reckon. Be aware it smells awful on the fingers - like an old Nun who's lost her Habit and taken up a new habit.
 
Loctite is an anaerobic adhesive. It cures by exposure to metal in the absence of air.

Loctite thread locking adhesive is anaerobic. Loctite superglue is a cyanoacrilate which is set off by the moisture in air. Locite also makes epoxies, silicones, hot melts, UV triggered and many other kinds of adhesive.
 
Loctite is an anaerobic adhesive. It cures by exposure to metal in the absence of air.

I'm not sure about the exposure to metal??

My understanding is that it does not need air but its the exposure to moisture. It will cure underwater.

But I stand to be corrected.

As I wrote, there are many different Loctite products. The superglues (cyanoacrylate) and the thread lockers (anaerobic) have completely different chemistry.
 
My understanding is that it does not need air but its the exposure to moisture. It will cure underwater.

But I stand to be corrected.

Loctite threadlocks do need air - to not cure. That's why (as previously stated) a new container has a generous air-gap.
I'm no chemist but suspect your mention of curing due to exposure to moisture may be a confusion with polyurethane adhesives, which do react with atmospheric moisture. In very dry environments, they may need some assistance from a damp cloth.
 
I tested a couple of anaerobic Loctites and Volvo's adhesive (which looks distinctly like some of the Loctites) both in air and when adhesive applied in the dry assembled and allowed to set under water. The strength of dry assembled and allowed to dry and dry applied, wet assembled and set under water was similar. I did this on a set of the same sized shackles, 3 for each test, and measure the strength with a torque wrench after allowing each to set for 24 hours.

The results are available in Practical Sailor.

I think Vyv did a similar test (different Loctites) and the results will be on his website. I think his conclusions were the same as mine.

My focus was on the ability of using Loctite, and which was best, if you were to assemble a propellor under water.

I simply used the Loctites easily available here one of which, it was suggested, might need heat to free up (and they are correct). Based on this I am more than comfortable in using Loctite on an anchor shackle.

Jonathan
 
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