Wago v chocolate connector

RAP77

Well-Known Member
Joined
28 Jul 2009
Messages
121
Location
Midlands / Boat Cardiff
Visit site
Based on the collective knowledge of this forum I have purchased some Wago connectors. They are very neat and cleverly designed BUT are they better than chocolate connectors????
I am not very impressed

1 Wago are simple no tools - Choc require screw driver
2 Wago are 1 per wire and do not link together - Choc are a single unit for all wires
3 Wago are free standing - choc can be screwed to surfaces
4 Wago need parallel incoming wires - Choc allow the wire to continue in a straight line
5 Wago are physically smaller (221 series) - choc are bigger
6 Wago are kinder to multi-strand wire - Unless they have leaves chocs damage the wire
7 Price differences are insignificant
8 Wago are not available in the High Street - Choc connectors are sold in most hardware stores (all be it of a low quality)
9 Wago are corrosion resistant (Is this true?) - Chocs (unless all brass) will rust solid on a yacht
10 Both will accept wires of differing size
11 Neither is even splash proof

I have a 4 wire circuit to extend, that requires to be occasionally disconnected.
I see the choice as Wago, choc or crimped bullet connectors.
I shall probably use the Wagos as I have them.
 
Last edited:
As an 'Old School' electrician and a practical boat owner I would NEVER use a spring loaded 'Just Push It In' connector.
The right item for the job, if it is in a corrosive location it needs a waterproof connection box.
 
The term "Wago" covers a lot of different connectors.

These Wago connectors have all the advantages of choc blocks and very few of the disadvantages:

1283525-40.jpg


I'm very pleased with mine on the boat.

Richard
 
I used Wago connectors for some work on the boat last year .
I found them easy to use in a confined space , less fiddly than tightening screws or crimping and easy to undo if required.
 
Based on the collective knowledge of this forum I have purchased some Wago connectors. They are very neat and cleverly designed BUT are they better than chocolate connectors????
I am not very impressed

1 Wago are simple no tools - Choc require screw driver
2 Wago are 1 per wire and do not link together - Choc are a single unit for all wires
3 Wago are free standing - choc can be screwed to surfaces
4 Wago need parallel incoming wires - Choc allow the wire to continue in a straight line
5 Wago are physically smaller (221 series) - choc are bigger
6 Wago are kinder to multi-strand wire - Unless they have leaves chocs damage the wire
7 Price differences are insignificant
8 Wago are not available in the High Street - Choc connectors are sold in most hardware stores (all be it of a low quality)
9 Wago are corrosion resistant (Is this true?) - Chocs (unless all brass) will rust solid on a yacht
10 Both will accept wires of differing size
11 Neither is even splash proof

I have a 4 wire circuit to extend, that requires to be occasionally disconnected.
I see the choice as Wago, choc or crimped bullet connectors.
I shall probably use the Wagos as I have them.

wago all the way right up to "I have a 4 wire circuit to extend", at which point both wago and choc block are out the window unless they are in a box. Choc block types of connections are for cable interfaces either at a cable concentrator/interconnect frame or between equipment (such as switch panels) and wiring looms. If you want to extend then you are joining cables mid loom, which needs either a box (cable interconnect) or proper connectors. The main issues are strain relief and sheathing.
In this circumstance bullet connectors (since you want to occasionally disconnect) or barrel crimps with heatshrink sleeving.
 
In this circumstance bullet connectors (since you want to occasionally disconnect) or barrel crimps with heatshrink sleeving.

Personally I'd go for a pair of four-way Superseal connectors:

s-l500.jpg


413h%2ByNb%2BmL._SL500_.jpg

(I would additionally add some adhesive heatshrink joining the ends of the connectors (that's what those barb shapes are for) to the outer sheath of the cable)

The wiring guys where I work often use Deutsch connectors:
DT-connectors.png

...but I think the crimps for these are pretty expensive.

Pete
 
I know nothing about Wago connectors, but I do know chock blocks are useless on a boat; they eventually corrode and fail, and that's it. I solder wherever possible, and fit heat shrink to insulate and protect. I know many folk disagree that soldering is preferable, but in many, many years, I've never had a junction fail. I just think the majority are frightened to solder, because they can't do it properly.
 
Personally I'd go for a pair of four-way Superseal connectors:

s-l500.jpg


413h%2ByNb%2BmL._SL500_.jpg

(I would additionally add some adhesive heatshrink joining the ends of the connectors (that's what those barb shapes are for) to the outer sheath of the cable)

The wiring guys where I work often use Deutsch connectors:
DT-connectors.png

...but I think the crimps for these are pretty expensive.

Pete

Big plus for multipole connectors is that, being polarised, you dont accidentally get a crossed wire mid loom. But, on the down side you are installing the same as a bundling tie mid-loom. This is a sin second only to cable ties that are not flush cut.
 
Thanks for the advice.
I will go for the Superseal connectors as they seem to offer the best solution for a connect/disconnect situation. They are simple , cheapish and waterproof.
Richard S - I have never seen these push type connectors. Where are they from?
 
Thanks for the advice.
I will go for the Superseal connectors as they seem to offer the best solution for a connect/disconnect situation. They are simple , cheapish and waterproof.
Richard S - I have never seen these push type connectors. Where are they from?

They're called Wago 261 connectors http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-fused-terminal-blocks/0815852/ and available in 12 way, 6 way and 3 way.

They can be used exactly the same as choc blocks and you can have several wires in each connector, ideally twisted, but they don't damage the wire at all and are copper and tin so won't rust. You will probably need a screwdriver or similar to push down the spring connector as they grip very tightly. The upside of that is, of course, that the wires will never come out unless you release them properly.

They're ideal for connections which you might want to change if you add further equipment or just want to play around with connecting things differently to try and achieve perfection (I do a lot of that! :ambivalence:)

Richard
 
Last edited:
They're called Wago 261 connectors http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-fused-terminal-blocks/0815852/ and available in 12 way, 6 way and 3 way.

They can be used exactly the same as choc blocks and you can have several wires in each connector, ideally twisted, but they don't damage the wire at all and are copper and tin so won't rust. You will probably need a screwdriver or similar to push down the spring connector as they grip very tightly. The upside of that is, of course, that the wires will never come out unless you release them properly.

They're ideal for connections which you might want to change if you add further equipment or just want to play around with connecting things differently to try and achieve perfection (I do a lot of that! :ambivalence:)

Richard

I extolled them here a while back - I'd checked they were tin-plated, which was important. The grip is very good, and especially useful in cramped (but of course dry) areas where the alternative to screw fit can be very handy.

As an aside, Wago make very, very many different connectors so the tendency for some folk to use the name for the small lever connectors as if they were the only ones can be confusing! :(
 
As an aside, Wago make very, very many different connectors so the tendency for some folk to use the name for the small lever connectors as if they were the only ones can be confusing! :(

Indeed - the standard "Wago" connectors used here sit on a DIN rail and have terminals operated by inserting a screwdriver deep into a hole and rocking it sideways. They make for nice neat wiring inside a control enclosure, but are probably a bit bulky for most yachts.

Pete
 
Indeed - the standard "Wago" connectors used here sit on a DIN rail and have terminals operated by inserting a screwdriver deep into a hole and rocking it sideways. They make for nice neat wiring inside a control enclosure, but are probably a bit bulky for most yachts.

Pete

Yes - but pushing straight in rather than rocking I believe, as there's one for each side of the connection. I used one to replace choc strip for all my fine instrument wires in a dry but awkward place - very much easier than screw fittings. Perhaps the purist would have used bootlace terminals and a screw fitting, but the spring grip is very strong and was good even with several fine wires, as Richard noted.
 
Personally I'd go for a pair of four-way Superseal connectors:

s-l500.jpg


413h%2ByNb%2BmL._SL500_.jpg

(I would additionally add some adhesive heatshrink joining the ends of the connectors (that's what those barb shapes are for) to the outer sheath of the cable)

The wiring guys where I work often use Deutsch connectors:
DT-connectors.png

...but I think the crimps for these are pretty expensive.

Pete

Those AMP connectors are quite widely used on motorbikes, including mine. Very relaible in what must be a pretty harsh environment.
Like everything else though, only as good as the person who puts it together.
Anything will be unreliable if you use it wrong.
Working in awkward circumstances like around the back of the nav table in a yacht, it's easy for joints to be made badly and faults not to be seen.
Sometimes it's more important that the wiring is well planned, neatly done and properly checked than what parts you use.
Nobody really likes choc blocks, but they are cheap, easy to get and can be plenty good enough if used properly.
Same as the Wago connectors, not much good on a motorbike that gets washed with a hose or ridden in the rain. Hopefully our yacht wiring should not get that kind of abuse?
 
I just think the majority are frightened to solder, because they can't do it properly.

I used some of these heat shrink solder sleeves recently, for the first time. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=24FjjIVpk9U

I was reasonably impressed. Certainly easy to use (the solder melts even with a hot air gun) and compact - not much thicker than the original wire. Probably a good option for remaking joints on a light gauge multi-core cable, radar for example.
 
Top