Hammerite...direct to rust? REALLY?

Greenheart

Greenheart

Well-Known Member
Joined
29 Dec 2010
Messages
10,384
Visit site
The dinghy trailer is pretty damned rusty. Not quite dangerous, but another summer like last year's, and I'd be worried. So...

...Hammerite. If I scrape off the worst, loosest rust, will the 'Direct To Rust' label really describe what the stuff in the tin does? No undercoat?

If that's so, I'm wondering why the other varieties exist...I mean, who'd want to prep a lot of rusty metal if the paint didn't require it?

Or is the result of 'Direct To Rust' noticeably less good?

How many coats/how much paint will several large patches on a dinghy trailer require?

Is there a colour best avoided for trailers? Dirty greens and black seem commonplace, but I'd prefer something else.

I'd happily paint the whole thing. :)
 
Had some good results with Hammerite on a variety of projects over the years. Like it says, best remove all the loose stuff. In fact, I found the best results were after using power tools such as the "cup" type wire brush or the flap discs on an angle grinder.

Another tip, I guess you already know, make sure the surface is as dry as poss before painting.

Hammerite is unlike standard paint. Don't overbrush it. That is, don't spread it out too thin. Just kind of gloop it on. You may only need one thick coat. If you want to give it 2, I seem to remember it says the second coat should be applied within either 24 hours or 7 days. Either one is OK, but not between these 2. Check this.

I haven't found any difference in durability re. colours. There is now smooth, or original "hammered" finish - which is better for hiding surface blemishes.

It shouldn't need thining, and for brush cleaning I haven't found anything else that will do it except Hammerite Thinners which is expensive. Just chuck the brush away!
 
dancrane said:
The dinghy trailer is pretty damned rusty. Not quite dangerous, but another summer like last year's, and I'd be worried. So...

...Hammerite. If I scrape off the worst, loosest rust, will the 'Direct To Rust' label really describe what the stuff in the tin does? No undercoat?

If that's so, I'm wondering why the other varieties exist...I mean, who'd want to prep a lot of rusty metal if the paint didn't require it?
Click to expand...


First came across it in the 70's, at a firm that made artic tipper trailers, they used to leave the new bodies out to rust before painting, it keyed better. Do a google on them, they do a range of products, and more detail on application.

Brian
 
It may not matter which paint you use, depends a lot on how your trailer is built - trailers with any box sections or tubing rust out from the inside, particularly around any welds. This can be reduced by filling any box sections with 2-part foam or Waxoyl when new.
Best anti-rust paint is zinc-rich epoxy, several makes available - by all means overpaint this with Hammerite, but don't rely on Hammerite alone for rust protection.
 
SAMYL said:
+1 for the POR range of paints etc. Used now by most classic car restorers for underbody areas.
Click to expand...

Interesting, thank you.

I'd no idea it was so complicated! My trailer is indeed box-section (and tubes) and I dread scraping with a screwdriver and finding it pushes right through...

...but I've owned a trailer just as rough six years ago, which I fixed up with Hammerite, then sold...so I've no idea whether it's now good as ever, or scrapped!

I'm not certain I want to spend lots on a quart of paint, when a half-pint would suffice...But I'll keep in mind the decline in Hammerite's quality.

I'll post before-and-after photos here. And again in six months, when I expect it'll have seen a fair bit of rain. :rolleyes:
 
I've used POR 15 in the past. It is pretty good but tends to run off sharp external edges. As has been said, extremely difficult to get off skin, and not that good on bare, new metal. It likes a bit of rust to grab hold of. The other thing about it is that it is vulnerable to ultraviolet attack so if it's going to be exposed to sun (ok maybe not if this summer is like the last one!) it will need to be overpainted with something else.

I've had this stuff recommended to me (which sounds very good) by someone with MOD connections:

http://www.aquasteel.co.uk/index.html

Also, if there is no paint already on it and you can get rid of the loose rust, anything with zinc in it is well worth using:

http://www.zinga-uk.com/ (available on eBay)

or Galvafroid
 
I don't agree that the fact that hammerite brushes can be cleaned with fairy liquid tells you anything about its qualities as a paint.
You can also use fairy to clean brushes of epoxy.
Old Skool hammerite can be removed with petrol FWIW. Even after it has cured.
If I had hopes of making a trailer last for ever, I'd use epoxy after some sort of phosphate rust killer, if it couldn't be galvanised.
If you are just trying to prolong its useful life, any paint is much better than none.
 
Ive just come in from the garage having painted some 16mm thimbles with Hammerite for extra protection + washed the brush in soapy water :-)

Over the winter I refinished my Laser dinghy trailer with a wire brush on a drill + grinding disc on a angle grinder + Fertan + 2x Hammerite. Personally, I wouldn't follow their paint over rust advice.

'Elf and safety has meant that Hammerite has changed regularly over the past 10 years.

The original stuff
- Could only clean brushes in thinners
- Additional coat had to be applied within 24hrs or after 6 weeks to avoid a reaction during curing
- The hammer finish hammered so much it created a hole in the paint at the bottom of the dippy

The new stuff
- Can clean your brush in soap and water
- Can apply additional coats whenever, although the previous coat will pickup even after touch dry
- Hammer finish doesnt happen, even when piling paint onto a horizonal surface (The only place you see it is in the can after stiring)

Has anyone sprayed with the new stuff? How much thinners did you add? I have some spraying to do when the weather improves.
 
I only use hammerite on outside ornamental stuff like gates and railings now , years ago an old boy told me that hammerite is to brittle and easily chips and cracks , especially on trailers and car underbody areas . He recommended using bitumen paint , cheap as chips , flexible and chip resistant . He was dead right . i have a wheelbarrow and garden rubbish trailer that should have been a pile of rust 10 years ago that still look perfect , outside all weathers with 2 coat of bitumen , ( painted 22 years ago ).
 
Lakesailor said:
Hammerite is not the paint it used to be. In fact I've used it on trailers in the past 10 years and it has been rubbish.

It is certainly not the best paint to use.

There was a good thread a few days ago. http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?353432-Trailer-paint-recommendations
Click to expand...

The original Hammerite was brilliant, but due to the ban on certain VOCs in consumer paints (Xylene in this case I think) the new version is rubbish. Its exctly the same as other Inernational metal primers.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top