Removing scratches from clear perspex

Provided not too deep they ceratinly can be polished out. Metal polish is the traditional "compound" for light scratching but there are Perspex polishes available which I an sure Google will find.
 
In used a polishing mop and G3 Farecla cutting compound followed by polish to finish - basically the same technique as restoring gel coat and it worked a treat on my saloon windows.

Low speed and plenty of lubrication is essential
 
If your going to try toothpaste, get the cheapest possible toothpaste that you can find, tesco value or similar, the modern toothpastes seem to contain very little abrasives now, i used some colgate sensitive on my dive mask and it did absolutely nothing to it !, then i tried the little tube of free toothpaste you get on virgin flights and that worked a treat
 
Once had a couple of friends drop into the boatyard on their way home from a night away. Looking for something useful to do, they cleaned the waterline with tothpaste and toothbrushes! Best ever - I wonder if it was a whitening type..?

Polishing should remove the myriad smaller scratches which can make perspex/acrylic almost opaque, but it reminds me of my motorcycling days when I would use spray furniture polish on my visor to extend its useful life. It temporarily fills the scratches that won't come out and prevents all the glare those can cause.

Rob.
 
.... Looking for something useful to do, they cleaned the waterline with tothpaste and toothbrushes .....

What strange people. Did you let them sleep in the cockpit locker as well?
 
I recently bought a bench grinder on eBay. The 'clear' safety eye screen was completely opaque, with embedded rust and cloudy plastic where I guess it had been left in the sun. I cleaned it up using a few grades of wet and dry paper followed by solvol autosol which is a fairly coarse metal polish, followed by T-cut.

I recall it's a good idea to wash the tcut etc off fairly thoroughly as it contains oils which may yellow some plastics?

You can get w&d paper in 2000 or even higher grades now, worth going to the finest grade you can IMHO if you have to sand scratches out, but starting with too fine a grade is just a waste of time.
 
I recently bought a bench grinder on eBay. The 'clear' safety eye screen was completely opaque, with embedded rust and cloudy plastic where I guess it had been left in the sun. I cleaned it up using a few grades of wet and dry paper followed by solvol autosol which is a fairly coarse metal polish, followed by T-cut.

I recall it's a good idea to wash the tcut etc off fairly thoroughly as it contains oils which may yellow some plastics?

You can get w&d paper in 2000 or even higher grades now, worth going to the finest grade you can IMHO if you have to sand scratches out, but starting with too fine a grade is just a waste of time.

+1
 
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