Knott trailer bearings.

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Richardsix

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The time has come to check and grease up my trailer bearings, does anyone know how to remove the dust cover on Knott waterproof bearings, usually you just give them a tap on each side and off they pop,revealing the nut to adjust the bearing, not the case with these. They are meant to be waterproof and sealed for life, I dont trust this statement when it comes to salt water so would like to check and grease.

Richard
 
Just tap a screwdriver or chisel between the cap and hub casting. Work your way around.

knott-52mm-euro-hub-grease-cap-467-p%5Bekm%5D400x300%5Bekm%5D.jpg
 
pvb said:
If that's the case, you may not be able to dismantle them.
Click to expand...

That is what I understand from the link given above.

Conventional hubs with separate bearings can be dismantled, inspected, regreased and new seals fitted if necessary.

The "unitised" bearings cannot the serviced. They are a non-adjustable lubricated for life assembly with integral seals.

If they are Ok they are Ok!
If they are not they have to be replaced as a complete unit.
 
Got the cap off, needed to use brute force and ignorance, plenty in our house, got the wife to do it!......yep they are sealed for life and need replaceing, not a very long life though, around 18 months. I will not be useing them again.
 
Richardsix said:
Got the cap off, needed to use brute force and ignorance, plenty in our house, got the wife to do it!......yep they are sealed for life and need replaceing, not a very long life though, around 18 months. I will not be useing them again.
Click to expand...

Can you replace them with anything different or are the hubs designed specifically for them.
 
Only got the cap off, cant get the nut undune untill I source a big enough socket, bigger than 32mm which is where mine stop. I dont think any others will fit, think I am stuck with these.
 
Cheers for the link, this post says it all..

I have said my bit enough times on these sealed bearings, Alco, Knott, some Peak and some Avonride axles use them. They generally fail after 2.5-3 years

I have replaced some, they used to be unavailable for purchase but are now becoming a stock item in some bearing suppliers.

If I tell you how to replace them you can make your mind up if you can do it roadside or not and if a taper bearing may be easier.

Take off the hub cap as normal

Get out your 3/4 drive socket set with 32mm to 36mm socket depending on nut size (Draper make a 32 mm socket for 1/2 inch drive, may save a few bob on a 3/4 drive set)

Place socket on nut and add at least a 6 foot extension bar, you will need to stand on it and bounce to break the torque the nut is applied at. There is no split pin, the nut is torqued on.

Got the nut off, sit down, drink at least a litre of water to replace the sweat lost and allow your heart to come back within normal rhythm, now remove the hub, inside there are circlips either side of the bearing, also an oil seal on the inner face. Get out your circlip pliers and remove the circlips. Pop out the oil seal with your trusty 10mm flat blade screwdriver

You now have access to the bearing, either use a fly press to remove it safely or it can be done with with a chuffin big lump hammer a load of elbow grease and a purpose made drift that matches the diameter of the bearing. Hope the bashing doesn't crack the hub casting, maybee best to get the press out of the tool box just to be sure. If you go the bash method sit down drink a litre of................

Clean off the hub and axle stub with a parrafin soaked rag to remove crud

OK now it is out, use the reverse to refit it (£35-£50 for the bearing / seal kit depending on type), hope you don't damage the bearing by bashing it in or crack the hub casting, perhaps best to use the press, hope you didn't pack it away in the toolbox. If you use the bash method sit down etc...........

Replace the circlips and oil seal wipe of grease on the seal, internal surface of bearing and stub axle to help it on and to seat the oil seal and refit the hub.

You now need a new hub nut (£6 ish each), they can only be used the once, and with your huge capacity hydraulic torque wrench refit the hub nut to the correct torque, you probably need that 6 foot extension bar to get the wrench to click if you only have the manual version. (Typically 214ft lb)

Refit the hub cap and off you go.

Easy peasy.
 
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