More fuses - What size for a simple car radio

lesweeks

lesweeks

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I'm fitting a pretty bog-standard, new, car radio/cd player in my old boat and I'm not sure what size fuse I should use. The instructions with the unit are obviously for car installation and simply say replace like with like!

But, of course, there is no original fitting, it's a new radio, in a box, from Lidl, designed to fit into a car which, I guess, would already have a fuse in the fuse box for a radio. I thought I'd have a look under my bonnet but the car has an 'info-audio system' which is quite a bit more than the bog standard......

Nowhere can I find spec info as to what amperage the radio draws so I'm guessing and using a 5Amp.
If anyone can say I'm right or wrong I'd appreciate a comment.

Anyone driving around in a 1990's Astra?

Any suggestions? Thanks
 
lesweeks said:
I'm fitting a pretty bog-standard, new, car radio/cd player in my old boat and I'm not sure what size fuse I should use. The instructions with the unit are obviously for car installation and simply say replace like with like!

But, of course, there is no original fitting, it's a new radio, in a box, from Lidl, designed to fit into a car which, I guess, would already have a fuse in the fuse box for a radio. I thought I'd have a look under my bonnet but the car has an 'info-audio system' which is quite a bit more than the bog standard......

Nowhere can I find spec info as to what amperage the radio draws so I'm guessing and using a 5Amp.
If anyone can say I'm right or wrong I'd appreciate a comment.

Anyone driving around in a 1990's Astra?

Any suggestions? Thanks
Click to expand...

3 - 5 amp.
 
You might find there's a separate circuit to preserve the unit's memory. This has a very small drain, so a 1 amp fuse should be sufficient. In order to work this must obviously remain live at all times (a slightly contentious issue), so you might wish to tap off, say, a bilge pump feed, assuming that remains live, too.
 
haydude said:
It depends on the radio output power. I have a 4x40 Watts and I burnt a 5amps fuse using only 2x40 interior speakers at loudish volume, so I fitted a 10amps
Click to expand...

The fuse is not there to protect the radio, it's there to protect the cabling to the radio. The fuse must be less than the current carrying capacity of the wire degraded for its installation location.
 
macd said:
You might find there's a separate circuit to preserve the unit's memory. This has a very small drain, so a 1 amp fuse should be sufficient. In order to work this must obviously remain live at all times (a slightly contentious issue), so you might wish to tap off, say, a bilge pump feed, assuming that remains live, too.
Click to expand...

On mine the current is taken from the permanent connection. The switched connection that connects to the ignition on a car, is just used for sensing.

Bit of a pain really as I connected mine to the battery meter connection which was only fused at 1 amp.
 
the_branflake said:
Fuse 17 - 10 Amp - Radio, MFD, Instrument Panel, Glovebox Light, Electric External Mirrors

So yes less than 10amps for just the radio.
Click to expand...

Hey, Thanks for checking. No electric wing mirrors on my old gaffer!

And thanks for all the other comments folks. Much appreciated.
I've resigned myself to re-tuning each time the radio goes on as I don't want the battery drain just to maintain the memory of the one or two stations I listen to.
Les
 
Last edited:
lesweeks said:
I've resigned myself to re-tuning each time the radio goes on as I don't want the battery drain just to maintain the memory of the one or two stations I listen to.
Click to expand...

I can't put a figure on it, but the drain from the memory feed is minute...rather less than a car alarm, I'd have thought. (I daresay the bumf with the radio might tell you.) Suppose your decision largely depends how long your boat's typically left unattended.
 
lesweeks said:
Hey, Thanks for checking. No electric wing mirrors on my old gaffer!

And thanks for all the other comments folks. Much appreciated.
I've resigned myself to re-tuning each time the radio goes on as I don't want the battery drain just to maintain the memory of the one or two stations I listen to.
Les
Click to expand...
Could you not just use a PP9 to power the memory? Wrong voltage I know but worth a try
 
macd said:
I can't put a figure on it, but the drain from the memory feed is minute...rather less than a car alarm, I'd have thought. (I daresay the bumf with the radio might tell you.) Suppose your decision largely depends how long your boat's typically left unattended.
Click to expand...
Less that the self discharge in my experience. Though probably varies on the radio! And you get a nice flashing red LED to warn off thieves....
 
If you connect a PP9 to the permanent power supply of the radio it would be wise to check that it does not receive 12v when the radio is on. According to the safety instructions on non-rechargeable batteries they are liable to explode if you attempt to charge them. Although this may just be a ruse to encourage you to buy more batteries I think that I would avoid it.
 
Ruffles said:
Less that the self discharge in my experience. Though probably varies on the radio! And you get a nice flashing red LED to warn off thieves....
Click to expand...
After having the radio pinched out of my Golf, I drilled a small hole in the dash and fitted a red LED. It was wired to circuit that became live when the ignition was turned off. This gave the impression of an intruder alarm and I was never broken into again. (Probably wouldn't have anyway)
 
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