Tugw
Well-Known Member
I cant decide what to use? Teamac suregrip or Kiwigrip?What does the panel think?Any opinions on which is best would be very helpfull.
Non Slip Deck Paint
- Thread starter Tugw
- Start date
multihullsailor6
Well-Known Member
I only have experience of Kiwigrip and was very impressed with it, it sure gives an excellent footing. Not the best to sit on though in swimming trunks / bikinis as the structure is very coarse. I am planning to paint my deck with it this spring.
Could not find a picture of a Teamac Suregrip painted deck, anyone have such a picture?
Could not find a picture of a Teamac Suregrip painted deck, anyone have such a picture?
windfan
New Member
The solution I discovered after much trial and error on my Catamaran was to use good quality gloss paint sprinkled with Microballoons while being painted with a roller. This is only to be accomplished on a calm day as the M.B.S. are VERY light!!.
Stemar
Well-Known Member
V1701
Well-Known Member
Try this thread also running at the moment...
Tugw
Well-Known Member
Sandtex it is then--simples
Sniper
Well-Known Member
You won't regret it.
Tradewinds
Well-Known Member
Sandtex - Ultra Smooth or Fine Textured
Stemar's pic shows Ultra Smooth - I don't know whether that was the product he actually used or just a quick image grab.
Seems there are 3 choices of Sandtex product:
1) Sandtex® Fine Textured Masonry Paint
"Formulated for superb durability with a fine textured finish to fill hairline cracks and disguise minor blemishes."
2) Sandtex® One Coat Ultra Smooth Masonry Paint
3) Sandtex® Ultra Smooth Masonry Paint
Reliably tough, colourfast, and flexible, with an ultra-smooth finish that is easy to apply and covers large areas fast.
"Microseal ® technology, Dirt resistant, Highly durable, Easy to apply
15 year guaranteed protection"
I'm guessing that it's 1) that most people have used - or am I wrong?
Could users please confirm what they actually used?
Many thanks
Stemar's pic shows Ultra Smooth - I don't know whether that was the product he actually used or just a quick image grab.
Seems there are 3 choices of Sandtex product:
1) Sandtex® Fine Textured Masonry Paint
"Formulated for superb durability with a fine textured finish to fill hairline cracks and disguise minor blemishes."
2) Sandtex® One Coat Ultra Smooth Masonry Paint
3) Sandtex® Ultra Smooth Masonry Paint
Reliably tough, colourfast, and flexible, with an ultra-smooth finish that is easy to apply and covers large areas fast.
"Microseal ® technology, Dirt resistant, Highly durable, Easy to apply
15 year guaranteed protection"
I'm guessing that it's 1) that most people have used - or am I wrong?
Could users please confirm what they actually used?
Many thanks
Sniper
Well-Known Member
Fine textured for me. Used regularly over 10 years and as 'non-slip' and hard wearing as any designated marine product.
GrumpyOldGit
Well-Known Member
Very nice too, if you want your boat to look like a seaside bungalow !!!
Try premier marine paints website, about £15/litre if memory serves and works brilliantly, way better than a water based masonry paint and one tin did the whole of our decking on a 34' Dehler
Try premier marine paints website, about £15/litre if memory serves and works brilliantly, way better than a water based masonry paint and one tin did the whole of our decking on a 34' Dehler
Sniper
Well-Known Member
1) My boat doesn't fit your description
2) why is it 'way better'? Have you tried Sandtex? I have used proprietary brands in the past and have found them thin, poorly adhering and above all expensive.
jswindel
Well-Known Member
I have used Sandtex Ultrasmooth on my wooden dinghy floor and it seems fine. Not that smooth, so it grips well. The big attraction was that a tester pot was big enough to supply two coats. A full sized tin would have cost as much as the whole dinghy.
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?135320-Building-a-Portuguese-style-dinghy/page2
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?135320-Building-a-Portuguese-style-dinghy/page2
Kelpie
Well-Known Member
Just for clarification... as some things seem too good to be true...
I'm looking at repainting the decks, coachroof, basically the entire upper moulding. It has previously been done in white, probably Toplac, and starting to look pretty shabby now. There are some non-slip areas which have been done in something like interdeck.
Can I really use masonry paint instead of Toplac? Is it going to look dull and get grubby? Or os the masonry paint only really suitable for areas that are supposed to be non slip?
I'm looking at repainting the decks, coachroof, basically the entire upper moulding. It has previously been done in white, probably Toplac, and starting to look pretty shabby now. There are some non-slip areas which have been done in something like interdeck.
Can I really use masonry paint instead of Toplac? Is it going to look dull and get grubby? Or os the masonry paint only really suitable for areas that are supposed to be non slip?
GrumpyOldGit
Well-Known Member
Peeling sandtex is so very attractive is it not ? Having seen any number of such bodges in my travels and trying to get sandtex type products off again, I can say that using the correct product makes life a lot easier especially fo the next owner. Try selling your boat on the YBW site with the tag "SANDTEX DECK PAINT" and wait quite some time for the phone to ring off the hook .....
GrumpyOldGit
Well-Known Member
If yours is a ferro boat use sandtex, otherwise use proprietary deck paint, see my previous response !!
Sniper
Well-Known Member
You seem intent on adopting a needlessly confrontational stance. My contribution to this thread has been to offer suggestions based on personal experience. Your experience may differ but I don't see the need to be quite so derogatory.
scoty
Well-Known Member
non slip
Preparation...there·s no short cuts, if you want a correct job,
In fifteen years, I·ve used only International non slip paint on my Westerly Twice,
Secret is, Do the preparation work properly, choose the best weather/air conditions to do
the painting,
I like peoples comments years after, "looks as if you did your paint job recently"
The boat represents you,,,,to others
Preparation...there·s no short cuts, if you want a correct job,
In fifteen years, I·ve used only International non slip paint on my Westerly Twice,
Secret is, Do the preparation work properly, choose the best weather/air conditions to do
the painting,
I like peoples comments years after, "looks as if you did your paint job recently"
The boat represents you,,,,to others
Slycat
Well-Known Member
I've been happy with the masonry paint as a solution to the grippy areas.
Only complaint is that it does tend to get a bit grubby in the very travelled areas (like the cockpit seats).
Any solutions to these areas getting dirty and hard to clean?
Only complaint is that it does tend to get a bit grubby in the very travelled areas (like the cockpit seats).
Any solutions to these areas getting dirty and hard to clean?
Stemar
Well-Known Member
My Sandtex tin was a quick image grab, as suggested. When the time comes to do mine, I'll try a tester pot of the smooth and see how I feel about it. I can then go up or down a grade as needed.
On the subject of durability, 3 words: Preparation, Preparation, Preparation. The same applies whther you use Sandtex, B & Q MAsonery paint or a super marine 24 carat coating at megabucks.
Any textured finish will eventually wear and start looking tired. The advantage of the cheaper options are that a freshen up won't break the bank. Your boat may not look quite as good as the megabux version at 4 years, but can look better at 5 years 'cos you've re-done it.
BTW, my suggestion is ONLY for the non-slip areas. My plan is to do remove the old non-slip paint (dilunet or similar - don't use Nitromores on a plastic boat
), paint the smooth bits with a 2-pack, overlapping onto the non-slip, then amsk & paint the non-slip, which will be most of the horizontal areas.
On the subject of durability, 3 words: Preparation, Preparation, Preparation. The same applies whther you use Sandtex, B & Q MAsonery paint or a super marine 24 carat coating at megabucks.
Any textured finish will eventually wear and start looking tired. The advantage of the cheaper options are that a freshen up won't break the bank. Your boat may not look quite as good as the megabux version at 4 years, but can look better at 5 years 'cos you've re-done it.
BTW, my suggestion is ONLY for the non-slip areas. My plan is to do remove the old non-slip paint (dilunet or similar - don't use Nitromores on a plastic boat
), paint the smooth bits with a 2-pack, overlapping onto the non-slip, then amsk & paint the non-slip, which will be most of the horizontal areas.