Sikkens v decks oil v bare wood?

My experience with oil has the advantage of simplicity but, over time with many applications it eventually turns black and gooey. Maybe it should be rubbed back with white spirit each year.
Sikkens (natural) works well but has pigment in it which does colour the teak. If you avoid a build up of Sikkens by rubbing back each year it can be very successful.
 
SHUG said:
... ... ... Sikkens (natural) works well but has pigment in it which does colour the teak. If you avoid a build up of Sikkens by rubbing back each year it can be very successful.
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Even Sikkens natural is extremely strongly coloured and gives the wood a sickenly (sic) shade of yellow - as far from natural as you could imagine. Use colourless, if you can find it.
 
Impaler said:
Just removed stripped and sanded my teak grab rails. Anyone have opinions on the best way to finish them? Ta.
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I spent an cheerful and exhausting six hours yesterdays stripping and sand every bit of outside wood on Jumblie so I've been giving this some thought too. I've decided to use oil only, on several grounds.

First, nothing, but nothing, sticks to teak long term. It's just too oily. Jumblie had about six different things on her, a hangover from a Sailing Today test and they all looked disgustingly scaggy and patchy

As a result, anything which includes pigment should be avoided, because in due course the pigmented stuff will start coming off and the results will look horrible. On a simultaneous thread, Semco is being recommended but I see from the Onward Trading website that even the "natural" Semco has pigment in it, so that's out for me too.

I'm going to oil it. Simple as that. I've tried Deks Olje in the past, and while it has worked very well for me on the Jouster (no reasonable offer refused) cabin sole I have never had much luck with it outside, so standard teak oil will do fine. If you carry a bottle of it and a rag then a quick re-oiling is a pleasant way to spend half an hour at anchor and keeps everything looking fine.

On a personal aesthetic note, I don't actually like teak to be too shiny - I think it's at its best when it has that lovely intermediate colour between silky grey and brown. That's why I'd never dream of using one of those plastic teak substitute deckings - they might look lovely at the Boat Show but when the rest of the boat has weathered they'll look as glaring and false as an an American TV anchorman's teeth. I'm planning to make a fortune selling grey ageing lotion to weather embarrassingly shiny plastic decks ...
 
Ubergeekian said:
I spent an cheerful and exhausting six hours yesterdays stripping and sand every bit of outside wood on Jumblie so I've been giving this some thought too. I've decided to use oil only, on several grounds.

First, nothing, but nothing, sticks to teak long term. It's just too oily. Jumblie had about six different things on her, a hangover from a Sailing Today test and they all looked disgustingly scaggy and patchy

As a result, anything which includes pigment should be avoided, because in due course the pigmented stuff will start coming off and the results will look horrible. On a simultaneous thread, Semco is being recommended but I see from the Onward Trading website that even the "natural" Semco has pigment in it, so that's out for me too.

I'm going to oil it. Simple as that. I've tried Deks Olje in the past, and while it has worked very well for me on the Jouster (no reasonable offer refused) cabin sole I have never had much luck with it outside, so standard teak oil will do fine. If you carry a bottle of it and a rag then a quick re-oiling is a pleasant way to spend half an hour at anchor and keeps everything looking fine.

On a personal aesthetic note, I don't actually like teak to be too shiny - I think it's at its best when it has that lovely intermediate colour between silky grey and brown. That's why I'd never dream of using one of those plastic teak substitute deckings - they might look lovely at the Boat Show but when the rest of the boat has weathered they'll look as glaring and false as an an American TV anchorman's teeth. I'm planning to make a fortune selling grey ageing lotion to weather embarrassingly shiny plastic decks ...
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Thanks all, I think I'll leave it bare for this year and see how it goes.
 
All the people saying "Sikkens" - which actual product do you mean? I'm looking for some stuff like this to adopt for all of KS's exterior wood, but there are quite a few different things under the Sikkens brand.

Cheers,

Pete
 
Unfortunately I don't know the English for it, but in France there is "vernis" which is a standard spirit based varnish as in UK. Then there is "lasure" which may be water or spirit based that is water permeable and very flexible. I've lasured my garden furniture and it has been out all weathers (summer) for 10 years now and is almost as good as new. Doesn't do so well on the boat but it has lasted 3 years in med sun and rain. I think anything that is described as "yacht varnish" is not the right stuff.

I think the Sikkens product is named "cetol".
 
I've just started coating my rubbing strakes with Sikkens Cetol filter 7, I'm using pine as apparently the natural isn't a nice colour, It certainly isn't as nice as the clear gloss yacht varnish I put on last year but that had to be completely stripped again this season so I'm coping a guy in the yard that has been told it is one of the best and his is a major project.
Its got a satin finish, Now only time will tell, I'm going to oil my gunnels, window frames and toe rails tho just because there easy to get at.
 
All the people saying "Sikkens" - which actual product do you mean?
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Sikkens Cetol Marine, Natural I think you will find

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Agree its a bit orange coloured but so far its the best finish I have tried for the external "teak".

I believe Sikkens are discontinuing it though!
 
I don't think the filter 7 is the marine one, its hard to say because most of the can isn't in english, But I believe its just as good from what I hear, And at 57 euros a gallon who can complain
 
Up until a couple of years ago, I religiously cleaned and oiled the teak on deck. Looked great for a good while but always got 'dirty'. Then some bright spark on the pontoon said that the best thing for teak was to let nature take its own path and just leave it alone. Now all the maintainence I do with the teak is wash it with a deck brush and salt water and that's it. Looks natural and great with no work and no yucky chemicals! I like no work!
 
Sikkens Cetol Filter 7, deal (pine) coloured has been on the external woodwork for 5 years now. Scraped back (very easily), and re-coated part of the tiller this winter but everything else is fine. Usually give a light rub over and re-coat each winter. Excellent stuff.
 
I've tried and found better than most is teak sealer. After the teak has been cleaned or sanded apply this sealer by ithink 'Teak Wonder' one coat the another couple of days after then one more coat after six weeks. It seems to work better than most others. This will hold up for all the season.
 
VicS said:
Sikkens Cetol Marine, Natural I think you will find
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Cheers - so that's one vote for the "Cetol Marine" from you. My point is that other people are using other things (as posted after yours) but the waters are being muddied by everybody calling them all "Sikkens".

VicS said:
I believe Sikkens are discontinuing it though!
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I've only ever heard that on here, and I'd be interested to hear where it comes from. I first read it back around October, but last week Force 4 still had it on the shelves and told me they'd had recent deliveries and hadn't heard anything about it being stopped. I've been holding off using it on my cockpit seats as it'll need recoating in years to come, which is no good if I can't buy it any more, but so far I've seen no indication of it outside these forums.

Pete
 
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