Engine mount replacement

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saltyrob

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Hi,

We have a Volvo 2002 ,Volvo Seal,shaft and P bracket arrangement in our boat, which is now 24 years old. I have been thinking about how long engine mounts last and if there are any clues as to their condition. There is also quite a range of mounts avalable and at different prices, therefore would appreciate any advice on what type would be best for our installation ,if they need replacing.Also details of any suppliers

Many Thanks

Rob
 
Well my Yanmar ones are only supposed to last 5 years, which is a con, IMHO. The Yanmar ones are £136 each, so its a big ouch to change them.

Checking the alignment between shaft and gearbox flange faces is a good indicator. Remove the bolts, separate,, and then reintroduce. Measure the gap, which should be no more than 0.01".
The engine should rock firmly but evenly, and try and observe whether one mount seems to move or be softer than the rest. When you rock the engine, you should feel no mechanical metal to metal contact. If the engine seems to jump about at tickover or low revs, you probably have worn out mounts, which will translate to vibrating doors and floors in the boat.

I bought my replacements off a forumite, but mine were Australian agfter market bits which have a good reputation. They are probably different for Volvo.

The important thing is to match the original damping and deflection specifications, which should be available on the net somewhere.
 
This guy had a stall at the Battlesbridge boat jumble and I overheard him quoting a chap four engine mounts for a Volvo (new) for £100 which seems reasonable. No idea of quality but you could try him. I got his details as I might need to source some myself soon.

John Clibbett Marine Equipment 07979 336912

No connection etc...
 
£100 for a set of little puddle jumper engine AV mountings is about right.

Yanmar use Barry Controls AV mountings and Volvo derivitive of the old Metalastik mounts, very good stuff and less pricy if you go direct, however there is a simpler option.

Call Lancing Marine, ask them to quote you for a set of R&D mountings, give them your engine model in order that they can specify the correct sure hardness. Then wait for a surprise.
 
I do not know anything about your particular engine, but i had to change mine last year on a bukh 20 as one engine mount had started to collapse and it was a complete pig as the two set screws holding the collapsed mount had knackered their threads and the two on the opposing diagonal also. So it took ages to get them out and then I had to retap the threads. So total job took two of us a whole weekend when I reckon we could have done it in a morning if the set screws had been serviceable.
Moral of story - do it now!
Cheers
 
Latestarter1 said:
£100 for a set of little puddle jumper engine AV mountings is about right.

Yanmar use Barry Controls AV mountings and Volvo derivitive of the old Metalastik mounts, very good stuff and less pricy if you go direct, however there is a simpler option.

Call Lancing Marine, ask them to quote you for a set of R&D mountings, give them your engine model in order that they can specify the correct sure hardness. Then wait for a surprise.
Click to expand...

Yep, R&D thats what mine are. Memory aint what it was.
 
[QUOTE Call Lancing Marine, ask them to quote you for a set of R&D mountings, give them your engine model in order that they can specify the correct sure hardness. Then wait for a surprise.[/QUOTE]

Are the Volvo 2000 series mounts not proprietry? Changed a set on a Volvo 2003 a couple of years back and R&D mounts were a no no. I know the rear mounts on the 2003 are an unusual configuration. I assume the 2002 ones are similar.
 
robmcg said:
[QUOTE Call Lancing Marine, ask them to quote you for a set of R&D mountings, give them your engine model in order that they can specify the correct sure hardness. Then wait for a surprise.
Click to expand...


VP use Metalastic Cushyfloat made by Trelleborg, I did the research and ended up speaking to them, they use www.robush.co.uk to retail them as generic parts. I suspect that they will make yours as well. The shore hardness is stamped on the top of the foot plate, 45 in the case of the MD22.
Have a look on the robush site to find the right size and shape and clean up one of your old ones to find out the shore hardness. Be aware that they supply with coarse and fine threads.
Stu
 
Skipper Stu,
Contacted Robush UK and they are having great trouble sourcing the 45 hardness mountings for my MD22. Rang round some other distributors in France and Holland and they seem equally unsure. Robush have not given up yet although I have been trying with them since the middle of last week and still no joy yet.

Any idea where else I can get some engine mounts for a MD22 ideally Fine thread?

regards Nigel
 
Just come off the phone to Robush and they are asking the following questions:

1. length of thread
2 diameter of thread
3. pitch of thread.

Gave them their part no. ie 17-1609-45 and asked for Fine thread and that does not seem enough for them. This is proving alot harder than I would have imagined.
 
Just looked at GMT who do the Triflex MTG mountings. Part number: 1087-45 and looking at the dimensions it matches the Cushyfloats at a similar price and they are in stock.

http://www.gmt.gb.com/range/machine_feet/PDFs/Triflex-Mountings.pdf

They only do Course Metric thread M16 2.0 pitch rather than the Fine thread recommended. Any reason why instead of rethreading to a Fine pitch just don't buy some Stainless M16 course thread and relevant nuts and use this? I need to get on to this as I need to complete the job before the end of October otherwise not till next April/May.

Perhaps Tony /Travelmate who posted the suggestion of using Triflex MTG mounts could comment on him experience of using them.
 
nigelstgeorge said:
Skipper Stu,
Contacted Robush UK and they are having great trouble sourcing the 45 hardness mountings for my MD22. Rang round some other distributors in France and Holland and they seem equally unsure. Robush have not given up yet although I have been trying with them since the middle of last week and still no joy yet.

Any idea where else I can get some engine mounts for a MD22 ideally Fine thread?

regards Nigel
Click to expand...
I dont understand, the girl I bought mine off knew what she was talking about and I actually bought the coarse thread ones, she knew about the fine thread thing and said they didnt have fine in stock but would be getting some. I suspect the waters have been muddied by talk of studs, they dont sell those, you have to use your old ones. As it happens I bought some thread bar and first of all made some new studs, the only prob was that the lower nut needed to be made smaller to give enough adjustment on my installation. I actually fitted them then got the old fine thread studs rethreaded on the bottom to coarse and bobs your uncle, the part number refers to the shore hardness with the 45 on the end. If you want, I have my home made ones still, with the coarse thread, a modest amount nof beer tokens and I will get them to you OR get the old ones rethreaded like I did
Stu
 
Thanks Stu - looks like I am getting the coarse ones also. Rebecca who I talked to is makingsure she has them in stock and working out postage etc. I will either re-thread as you have done or get some coarse thread bar. The new price is £30.91 + VAT and the TFG ones are very similar at £30.84 + VAT. I will go with the Metalastic ones as you have used them and found them OK although hard to find the difference.

BTW I got a great price for an MD22 exhaust elbow from Trans Atlantic Diesels in the US. The equivalent of £165 versus circa £300 from Volvo. See Below:

As it is I have filled the pitting with JD weld and put in a s/steel liner in mine and quite happy that it will give me another 5 yrs service.


( Thank you for visiting out website the M50-60-01 elbow is $260.87 in stock also the gasket needed for that elbow is $ 5.06 and is also in stock.

Jennifer Green
Trans Atlantic Diesels, Inc)
 
nigelstgeorge said:
Thanks Stu - looks like I am getting the coarse ones also. Rebecca who I talked to is makingsure she has them in stock and working out postage etc. I will either re-thread as you have done or get some coarse thread bar. The new price is £30.91 + VAT and the TFG ones are very similar at £30.84 + VAT. I will go with the Metalastic ones as you have used them and found them OK although hard to find the difference.

BTW I got a great price for an MD22 exhaust elbow from Trans Atlantic Diesels in the US. The equivalent of £165 versus circa £300 from Volvo. See Below:

As it is I have filled the pitting with JD weld and put in a s/steel liner in mine and quite happy that it will give me another 5 yrs service.


( Thank you for visiting out website the M50-60-01 elbow is $260.87 in stock also the gasket needed for that elbow is $ 5.06 and is also in stock.

Jennifer Green
Trans Atlantic Diesels, Inc)
Click to expand...
Excellent, the metalastik are actually the suppliers to vp. My elbow is getting v iffy, I took it off and cleaned it carefully but it is not good, I was thinking of making one up from ordinary steel, easy enough to cut and weld
Stu
 
Watch out for the customs import duty on stuff from US this added another 50 quid to the price of my exhaust flange and then red star tacked on a customs handling charge.
 
Going back to the Volvo 2000 series engine mount question, is there an alternative to the Volvo mounts? These seem to cost over £100 a time (at least for the 2003) for what appears to be a lump of rubber with a bolt sticking out of it.
It's possible that the rear mounts can be replaced by generic ones, but the front ones appear to be mounted upside down to the engine, and to the engine bed via an angled racket (see http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7726000-21-11600C.aspx)

Anybody got any ideas?
 
Skipper Stu - well finally bit the bullet today and took out the 2 x forward engine mounts. Was going to take out all four at once; but as the engine will be left propped up on wooden blocks and wedges all winter I decided to do 2 at a time to stop the engine moving.

Anyway need to clean them up to check the hardness is 45 although this is not obvious at the moment as one is quite rusty. What surprised me was the difference in heights between the bottom and top nuts ie the amount of thread exposed between the nuts on each mount. There is a difference of about 22mm. Before I started I disconnected the shaft to see if the gearbox and shaft ends mated ok and they seemed alright but I was surprised with a 22mm height difference. When I finally come to replace them next year I will try and get the engine more level.

Did as you suggested and used blocks of wood and wooden wedges under the engine just enougth to take the weight of the side bolts going from the engine mount bracket to the engine mount. I did the front two first as they seemed to be more difficult to get at so the rear ones should be much easier.

Got alot of corrosion on the starboard forward engine mount and around the engine in that area. Cannot see any leakage although around all the water pipework in that area there is salt encrustation and salt corrosion. Just hope it is not the sea water pump.

regards Nigel
 
Hello guys, it's been a long time since this topic was started, but I'm having problems to find proper engine mounts for Volvo Penta 2002.
Did anyone found a replacement engine mounts for this 2000 series in last 11 years? :D

In my case , the rubber on front engine mounts delaminated over time, so I get excessive rock when I start the engine. Also, I get some clunking sound from time to time, like when the shaft is out of center....
Please help if you know there are some car or small truck engine mounts which are suitable, OEM number or car model, anything.
Cheers!
 
Thanks Rob, you are right about that, but I missed to write that my boat is located in Serbia, and in order to get the mountings here, shipping becomes crazy expensive....
That's why I'm looking for an alternative if possible
 
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