how to clean the bimini canvas.

andyc

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Its getting a bit green.
Any ideas on how to clean it.I saw people use white vinager and diluted bleach on the deck, but dont want to damage the canvas.

What do I use to re waterproof it after its clean?
 
We used Boracol (bought from http://www.acslimited.co.uk - excellent and friendly next day service, no commercial connection other than being a satisfied customer, twice) on our sprayhood then re-proofed with Fabsil (available from camping shops) with superb results. It even got most of the black spotting out of the webbing tie downs. The sprayhood, now 7 years old, has been replaced, although only because we've had other new canvas (stackpack, binnacle cover and bimini) in preparation for our cruising life and we are keeping the old sprayhood for use over winters.
 
Opinion vary but I clean my acrylic canvas sprayhood/sailcover/dodgers with a jetwasher - but put them on grass. Wouldn't like to think what would happen on concrete... This removes all the green stuff and brings them up like new. Never had any other stains to remove but interested to see CornishSailor's recommendation...

Would also recommend proofing with Fabsil - I use the Fabsil Gold and yes, buy it from a camping shop as it's much cheaper: -

http://www.camping-online.co.uk/waterproofing/waterproofing-for-tents/1l-fabsil-gold.html

I find 1 litre does the sprayhood and sail cover with a little left over, but it would depend how you apply it. I use rubber gloves and a hard sponge but you can brush it on. And don't do it in a confined space!
 
I another post over the weekend, warm water, washing up liquid and a little bleach was suggested for cleaning off algee on the boat, what would that do to a spray hood or bimini?
 
Depends on the fabric to a degree. The following instuctions I used for Sunbrella material;

Heavy cleaning for stubborn stains and mildew
Sunbrella® Shade fabric does not promote mildew growth, however, mildew may grow on dirt and other foreign substances that are not removed from the fabric. To clean mildew, or other stubborn stains:

•Four ounces (1/2 cup) of chlorine bleach.
•Two ounces (1/4 cup) of mild soap and/or detergent.
•One gallon of water.
•Carefully clean with soft bristle brush.
•Allow mixture to soak into the fabric for up to 15 minutes.
•Rinse thoroughly until all soap residue is removed.
•Air dry.
•Repeat if necessary.
•Re-treatment of fabric for water and stain resistance will be necessary.
Remember to protect the area around your Sunbrella if using a bleach solution. Carpet or other fabrics that are not Sunbrella may have an adverse reaction to the bleach.

If a boat cover is suitable in size for a washing machine, these steps should be followed:

•Use mild soap and/or detergent.
•For heavier stains add 1/2 cup of bleach to wash.
•Wash and rinse in cold water.
•Air dry. Never apply heat to Sunbrella.
•Re-treatment for water and stain resistance will be necessary after machine washing.
Re-treating the fabric

As part of the finishing process, Sunbrella® Shade fabrics are treated with a fluorocarbon finish, which enhances water repellency. This finish is designed to last for several years, but must be replenished after a thorough cleaning. Based on test results, Glen Raven recommends 303 High Tech Fabric Guard™ as the preferred re-treatment product for Sunbrella fabrics. Fabrics should be re-treated after thorough cleaning or after five years of use.

For more information on re-treatment products, please visit www.303products.com.

* Synthetic fabric heat settings normally do not exceed 150°F/66°C.

Applying 303 High Tech Fabric Guard
303 should be applied to Sunbrella® Shade fabrics after each thorough cleaning, which typically removes the original finish and reduces the fabric’s water repellency.

•Clean Sunbrella using one of the cleaning methods.
•Allow Sunbrella to completely air dry.
•Apply 303 Fabric Guard in a well ventilated area following instructions on the container.
•Apply 303 in a thin, even coat and allow fabric to dry completely.
•Apply a second thin, even coating of 303. (Two light coatings are more effective in restoring fabric water resistance than a single heavy coating. A 15-ounce bottle provides coverage of up to 50 square feet of fabric.)
 
I stopped off at C&J marine earlier this afternoon. They advise against using any bleach or even detergent to clean canvas products, apparently its the stitching that is the problem. They sell Renovo, so I suspect that is as good as a recommendation. But a sprayhood will need reproofing after.
 
Mine's a bit more far gone than yours by the sounds of it, I'm going to try Polycell 3 in 1 mould killer, sprayed on and left for a couple of days, followed by a good rinse, wash, rinse again, dry, reproof with Fabsil. Read a number of posts where people had used the 3 in 1 with good results...
 
We used Boracol (bought from http://www.acslimited.co.uk - excellent and friendly next day service, no commercial connection other than being a satisfied customer, twice) on our sprayhood then re-proofed with Fabsil (available from camping shops) with superb results.

Hi CornishSailor

Did you brush the boracol on and then just leave it to dry or brush on and later wash it off please? I've got lots of boracol left as I use it on the teak deck so would be great to put it to sprayhood demoulding duty too.
 
Wet the canvas. Then using a very soft brush apply Starbrite canvas cleaner brushing gently. Rinse. Dry. Apply 303 Fabricguard waterproofing with which comes in a spray bottle.

Do not touch anything like bleach, pressure washing etc. If you don't damage the canvas immediately you will certainly shorten it's life. It's a good idea to clean and waterproof every year (max two), it prolongs the life of the canvas. The above materials are designed for the job.
 
Stitching rots in the sun anyway unless it is UV grade ( and a lot of the coloured ones may not be UV grade).
Bleach, soap and water,sponged on, but rinse the seams off first in the rinse process, ie as soon as the dirt starts to lift..
Rinse off with the hose pipe ( not a high pressure blaster) and I then personally retreat the fabric with Thomsons.
 
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