Araldite Melting point?

[Spyro]

Anyone know roughly the melting point of set Araldite and does it go hard again once cooled?

 

[Spyro]

After a bit of Googling I've discovered that it starts to soften around 65 degrees C but can't find out if it goes hard again when cooled.

 

[machurley22]

It may well harden again but it won't be a strong adhesive any more.

How useful would that be though? Stuck something in the wrong place? Just heat it up, move it around and allow to cool. Job done. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[sarabande]

the lap shear strength charts show that it is the time spent at a high (say >60deg C) temp which is critical for the "strength" of the bond, and not so much the temperature itself.

There are so many versions of araldite, that it is difficult to answer the OP's q, without more details.

This .pdf is for Araldite 2011
http://av.rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geuncrT95...ata/ara2011.pdf

Page 4 has some revealing charts.

 

[Spyro]

Exactly right Silkie. Involves a tiller pilot Cantilever Bracket. Thats all I'm prepared to say /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[TigaWave]

I use and advise the use of Araldite 2011, also known as precision (blue and white tubes) as a thread lock sealant for underwater stainless, bronze and composite items as well as composite bearings, as this is a low temperature epoxy.

Softens for bearing removal at around 60-70, 90-100 it is runny and bearings slide out easily.

Other araldites are higher melting softening temp.

 

[Shearwater]

Ah! Used Araldite to stick a s/s saucepan lid handle back onto the lid. Thought it would be right for the job....i.e. what else could I have used? Thus far no dramatics in the kitchen department.

 

[footsoldier]

ColinWB

Snap! I did the same repair 4/5 days ago and guess what, the bugger fell off tonight. Yours will too, I imagine. Never realised Araldite melted at relatively low temperature.

Non-boaty, but I really could do with a suggestion for a more suitable adhesive for fixing handle to saucepan lid. (matching set, too tight to buy replacement etc etc)

 

[William_H]

Posters seem to be referring to the standard handyman Araldite. However Araldite is just a brand and they manufacture all sorts and grades of epoxy. They do a high temperature grade. Various other resins can also be had in high temp types. ie Vinyl Ester or polyester. You need to check the data sheets. olewill

 

[lenseman]

Totally remove the Araldite joint by heating gently then use a much stronger epoxy called "J B Weld".

Google for it, you won't be sorry. It is far, far stronger than sticky Araldite. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[footsoldier]

lenseman

Thank you for the info.

 

[whiteoaks7]

A bit late perhaps: epoxy resin is not generally a thermo plastic, once set it stays set. In my previous incarnation I often had to use a burning torch to remove the stuff, it didn;t melt just degenerated until it could be dug out. So as someone said - depends on the actual stuff, not the brand name. Also generally, two part plastics are thermo-sets, ie dont re-melt when heated.

 

[ianat182]

Try using a tube of 'Chemical Metal' made by those Plastic Padding people I think, supposed to be drillable and tappable when set.( this for the saucepan repair !)