I have always used Danboline but I used Teamac as well last year, both on the interior bilges and sides of my Freeman 22.
Looking at the boat last weekend I was surprised to find some of the paint peeling off in the open cockpit....it was the Teamac. The Danboline which was in a similar position was fine. I also found the Danboline was much better to use, appeared to adhear to the surface better and was thicker.
I would not use Teamac again. On my previous boat I painted all the bilges and lockers in Danboline and after 5 years it still looked very good indeed. The white is much better in the lockers as it makes them much lighter.
Not worth taking the cheaper option, it takes too long to do the job and I don't like doing jobs twice, and I am a notorious cheapskate!
I would vote Danboline as well, used it for years, does like a dry substrate though, but then so do most paints, don't they? I have found that ordinary yacht primer, applied into dry bilges, works well for Danboline.
Yup! It would be a hard choice, to go for a frilly thingy look, or dairy products look, or ship of the desert look??? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I have found Danboline quite the opposite to 'high opacity' ie thin!
After I used Jotun Hold Paint I never used Danboline again. Thats now hard to get hold (no pun etc) of so I use MIS bilge paint.
Teamac paints have a good reputation, and are probably just as good as any other. As with any paint job prep is vital, and lets face it, degreasing a bilge to get it good enough to paint is tricky. If you leave it more than say 3 days before overcoating there will be no cross linking and the paint will peel in time.
We had one customer who followed Internationals paint guidlines to the letter-yes four primers, 3 u/coats etc. He had terrible failiures because he would apply one coat every other w/end. The layers did not bond together and failed after a few years.
If you only have weekends to paint then if you do not sand back properly, and I mean properly, then the paint job will not last. If you overcoat within 3 days, less if its hot and more if its cold, then each layer will enjoy 'inter-molecular bonding' or cross linking and the paintwork will last.
Same with varnish.
I've always used a concoction of any old paints left over from other jobs, with some red lead stirred in. It always seems to come out a sort of brown/red, and sticks quite well.
I don't really know what the purpose is of painting the bilges, but it feels good and looks nice. Then I load all the rusty pig iron back in again.